Damper Tube Modification
After seeing the photographs of the new side damper tube system for the R12. I decided to come up with something similar.
The only additional parts I used was a Tamiya 104 roll damper OP.1413 F104. You'll need 2 to complete the conversion.
In the photograph I only have one Tamiya tube installed.
What did I do to make it work?
I cut down the two aluminum posts off off R12-22. I cut them down and made sure they were flush with the center brace. This allowed the carbon fiber cross brace to be lower by approximately 2.5 mm. This allowed the damper tubes to function properly without making contact with the upper or lower plates. Next I flipped the carbon fiber cross around so the body posts holes on the carbon fiber cross brace are more forward. Original kit position has the body posts facing rearward. No changes were made to the upper plate.
The Tamiya damper tubes were fitted with BD7 ball cups on the plastic tube side and the Yokomo R12-37R with R12-19 on the aluminum tube side. You might have to cut your ball cups down in order for the damper tube to work accordingly.You will also need part number R12-03FN, R12-10LF, and some M2.5x6 mm screws and ball ends.
You will mount the aluminum tube side in the holes where the body posts are located. Take a long screw and thread the screw through the ball end. Make sure the "neck" of the ball end is touching the chassis. Then you take a "loose" ball (R12-19) and thread that down on top. This will act as a spacer between the ball cup and body post. This will allow the ball cup to move freely when you have mounted the body post. If you don't do this it will bind.
That's it.
Oh, since you've cut down the center aluminum brace you're going to have to readjust your side spring tension.... A lot. I run my side springs on the inner position, which is fine. I don't know if the outer (on top of side link) position will work after this modification.
Last edited by EDWARD2003; 12-09-2015 at 10:19 PM.