Originally Posted by
ResultsRC
It was built stock as the manual suggested,how much diff is this than what u suggest here?what other effect does does this setup you suggest do better? I have alot of hair pins and s turns in this track that are slow speed,I like alot of steering. With the front screws in as steering stops even with no washers,its turning a little less than i really like,But it was washing out and waggin like a dogs tail with no steerin stops,the inside wheel was moving around to much,I may grind down the top of the screw and try and get the wheel turning a bit further,right before the point the servo loses leverage on the inside wheel. Im sure this wouldnt be the setup for a faster track. I had so much dremel work done to my scte,it was turning tighter than the tekno is now.Im still faster with the tekno,it just transitions smoother and quicker through rough spots in the track and the weight seems to roll it through the tighter corners much smoother,Im out to lunch trying to follow up race my xray 4wheel buggy. it feels so glitchy in the turns now im not sure ill be able to race them in back to back heats
I understand why you would want to run no washers but unless your track
only has jumps that launch straight and land straight and the
only turns are tight 180's your truck will be faster and more consistent with more washers. Even if that's your track there are other ways to obtain steering. Believe me, it took awhile for us to convince all the drivers on the team (including a pro or two) to add more washers. No one likes the idea of limiting steering. But the results of doing this have been proven over and over. My advice for everyone is to run the truck with 4 washers and then tune in more steering other ways. Just to be sure, check to make sure your servo saver is tight. Also, the plastic ackermann plate can flex a little and not deliver maximum holding ability at full lock, but this is usually only noticed into a tight turn at high speed but it could be a contributing factor. Another thing is to make sure you have zero bumpsteer (or a little bump out if you want more steering into a turn).
As far as the anitsquat, the manual starts with 3 degrees, which is simply too much. At the time it seemed good, but as we constantly tune and become more familiar with the truck/buggy we find better setups. Keep the C block pill where it is (should be center dot down) and change the D block to double dot up and out. This will give you 1 degree of antisquat and 3.5 degrees of toe.
If your truck is setup according to the manual I can give you a better overall starting setup if you want or if you're pretty comfortable with your truck now we can suggest one change at a time. The biggest thing is knowing
where you need more or less steering; e.g. into a turn, out of a turn, on power, off power, etc.