R/C Tech Forums - View Single Post - YOKOMO Touring Car BD-7
View Single Post
Old 11-09-2015, 09:36 PM
  #6296  
niznai
Tech Elite
 
niznai's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: All over the place
Posts: 2,974
Default

Originally Posted by Gel2al2d
I ran the 7k diff oil because when disassembling the rear diff I found that the initial viscosity was very thick and comparable to 7k or even thicker. I have since went down to 2k to try it out. Haven't had time to go to the track yet tho. I also took out rebound in the shocks.

I'll take all your words of wisdom and sort all this out the next time I get on the track. Hopefully it's before race day.
There's a lot of stuff you can do off the track. Diff oil should be thin enough that once you get it in the car and try to spin one wheel, the other wheel should spin the other way, not have the diff spin the motor. If you spin the motor, your diff oil is way too thick. This is what is going to happen on the track, instead of the diff allowing each wheel to find its own speed, it locks and you lose the rear end.

Next is the droop/roll. If the car doesn't have enough droop, the inner wheel will come off the ground and all your power will be wasted spinning that wheel in the air. I assume most people try to correct this by incorrectly going to thicker oils. This is wrong at this point. Make sure you don't have wheels off the ground first, and then decide if you need a thicker oil.

After setting droop, you need to make sure you have enough roll that weight is actually transferred to the wheel that can use power (outside). You don't need too much roll, but you need more than you have in the front, because the rear rolls more. This is where you need to look at your roll centres and decide if you need to adjust pillow block height and/or camber links.

And so on.

There's a very good thread floating about mostly written by Fred Swain. The main message is stop trying to copy setups. Have a read:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ber-links.html
niznai is offline