Originally Posted by midse

I haven't tested it back to back yet against a standard rear. Got a great starting point from Ryan for high grip track. E20 rear block ( mine is e25) 4mm inner shim -12mm screw and 1-2mm outer shim. A friend and I tested it a few nights ago. Pretty sure we settled on 1mm outer.

Be mindful that the outer hinge pin grub screw doesnt actually contact the pin, I guess its a design fault. I did use thread sealer on the grub screw despite this. Some of the sealer dribbled onto the pin and held it in place. Make sure the c hub can operate freely inside the arm. Light sanding or filing of the arm might be required. Mine were slightly grabbing but have freed up after the first race. Once everything is assembled and droop/ride height is set then use a good setup station to adjust your rear toe to 2.5 ( static). You'll see what effect suspension travel has on toe.

I wasn't able to test mine properly but my mates car was a huge improvement over the other times I've driven it.
We then raced last night on a very low grip bitumen track. It's actually old tennis courts. A good VBC mod driver suggested we use 3mm inner and .5 outer shims. I ran a 2k diff set low. It drove very consistent. One of the best low grip setups I've driven.

Apparently the Active rear requires fine tuning between all tracks.
Basically the high grip setup above slightly decreases outside toe and increases inside toe which gives more steering.

The low grip setup slightly increases outside toe,( I'm not sure if the inside stays neutral) Which increases grip. It certainly felt like it.

That's how it was explained to me.
I set the droop at 5 on the rear arm and adjust the front between 4.8 - 5.4