At the end of the day. No matter what combination you use with oil and piston, it needs to be closely balanced.
Ideally from a 8 inch drop test or you can even use 1ft. The suspension has to fully compress equally front and rear at the same time (both in distance compressed and time) and also rises about the same time.
If the rear sinks faster and raises faster than the front, then you need more pack. How this is achieved, via oil and piston combos is thru experimentation. Also the amount of compression has to be very close front and rear. You can't have the front compress 10mm, while the back does 20mm. This will result in front lifting off the ground over bumps, and the back of the car possibly slapping on jumps.
The end result that you want to achieve is equal compression and equal rise to static height and at equal speed. Once you achieve this, then your car will land more settled and go over jumps and bumps with minimal disturbance.
Keep in mind adding and removing weight will also affect these settings and may require additional tweaking. Sometimes you might find some setups that can achieve this, but many times it's not applicable to every car due to differences in the weight of the electronics used, or battery placement or lead or brass plates added regardless if it is the same model and brand. Also binding in the suspension and ball cups can also alter these settings.
In addition, sometimes people do make the front slightly stiffer mainly cause they are using heavy braking coming into a corner, and the front will swat too much under load and over steer, so they trade some bump handling for better corner entry as the front of the car doesn't compress as much. There is a trade off sometimes.