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Old 04-08-2015, 03:17 AM
  #365  
nicoo2k4
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 145
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Originally Posted by Lonestar
I've moved on with the assembly of my kit. I changed the plan slightly and now only have shocks to fill and bleed and electronics to install.

Couple of comments/questions:

- the flat spots on the pulley shafts so it doesn't rotate in the motor mount are brilliant! This is one of the things I hate with the Bd7. you never know which one of the m3 screws will start rotating...

- why the different design on the rear hubs? it prevents them from completely "falling", which makes the maintenance on the joints a PITA as the blades get stuck in the diff outdrive. Am I missing sthing here? And why the 0.5 shim instead of "just" molding it differently? I can't believe this is a tuning option.

- what is this front c-hub bit that everyone talks about removing to get more steering throw? I can't see any nipple or anything on the trailing edge of the c-hub...

- Binding parts: for the first time in ages, I decided I'd "rush" the assembly as the beginning was a pure joy. But most ballcups bind, and one of the blades doesn't move smoothly in the outdrive (the right one - haven't figured out if the issue is the blade or the outdrive yet... but the blade had injection mold flashings which I sanded off) so the suspension binds like hell. I've tried the usual tricks on the ballcups (pliers, heat, ...) but besides having burnt parts (the VBC plastic seems to burn very shortly!) I still have a bound suspension.
-> Are you guys doing something special to your ballcups, or using different ones/ballstuds?
-> Which non-vbc blades fit?

Thanks a lot!
Paul
Salut Paul,

Rear hub, I don't know. U can play with the shim. I already try and u know what? I can't feel any difference! So just set as in manual.

Front C-HUB, it's not on the hub, but on the steering block.

Blades : user Roche blade. Ref : ROC-XRT4-10 (Yes, it's for Xray...)

Ballcups... Never had issue...
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