[QUOTE=caltek1;13926222]KA2AEV,
I use Nulon Ezi-Glide clear silicone lubricant. Comes in a 500ml spray can and has been in my toolbox for a long time. It is an Australian brand and I really like the stuff.
Bob,
Sorry to hear you are up for more chemo, but hopefully this will be the last of it my friend. I really hope it goes into remission.
Thanks for the great info you pass on to us, you a wealth of knowledge to us all. I really wish I could come and get some of that knowledge in person.
You asked in another post what we thought of the MO5 V2 , well I really like the new chassis , so much that it is the first car I consider when racing. Yes I do have a backup MO5 V1, but it remains in my pitbag, unless I break/strip a gear in my V2.
The biggest thing I have found with the new car was the tendancy for dirt to get into the gearbox area and strip the intermediate gear, but using battery tape and blutak has resolved this issue for me. I also have now seen that the front chassis is prone to cracking, however at this stage it is not causing issues. I will monitor this though and carry a spare just in case.
The positives well the car is easier to drive, better balanced and for me is faster and more forgiving. Regarding the droop screws, I think a gimmick, as no real way to adjust properly without a specially made droop block, so I just use the standard shocks off my original MO5. (These are m chassis TRF units built per instructions, with 3 hole pistons all round and 35 weight oil, zero rebound).
I have found you do need to run front toe out on the car and I am presently running 1 degree rear hubs. I personally found the shocks in the convential position better than using the MO6 pins and use fluro springs front and rear in the same combos as you posted Bob.
I currently like mwb and have found the car to be reactive and stable on large and small tracks. I run the front a little lower than the rear for ride height and use front and rear shock towers with the rearsin the standard position and the fronts fully laid over or second outer hole depending on the track.
I do run a oil gear diff with 300 000 weight oil and like this better than heavier oil, as gives better steering and corner speed.
I use a shorty battery pack that weighs in at around 222 grms and have it offset to the non motor side for balance. We have a weight limit of 1330 gms, so I have added lead in and onto the front bumper for getting the power down.
I have found that 1.5 degrees rear camber the best for me ,any more than this and the car looses rear grip. I think this was an issue I was having before but somehow overlooked this setting and concentrated on changing rear hex width,
So my opinion is a little tainted as I really like the new chassis.
Hope my rose coloured glasses don't dazzle you and get better soon.
Take care,
Calvin.[/QUOTE
Thanks for the kind words Calvin. Yeah, it'd be fun to be able to sit and compare ideas and theories at a track, then go run a bit. On the cracking chassis, have you tried reinforcing the inside of the chassis with some silicone??? The 03 used to crack until we started building up that area with ShooGoo or silicone. Reduced that problem quite a bit.