Originally Posted by
Linguster
The problem that I am experience is that I can not get the pin into the hole in the outdrive on the "deep" side of the diff half. On the "old new" version of the diff there is two "higher" and two "lower" points where the X holding the small cogs is "sitting". Then you have no problem sliding in the pin on the lower points. On the new housing with the 3.0 kit all "points" for the X is high. I can not slide in the pin due to the lowest angle I get.
I will check some of my diffs this week and see if I can help at all. I know the 411/LE used V1 diffs, the TE used V2 diffs, and the Eryx 3.0 has the lightweight. I am not sure what the 2.0 used.
Originally Posted by
Holmenkollen
I tried the RRS at a tight indoor carpet track with medium grip and I drive modified. Ended up using 0.5-0.5 block in the rear and 1 mm shims in front of the rear arms to get the wheelbase right. It felt ok but not a huge difference in lap times compared to regular hubs. My best RRS 5 minute run was equal to my best run without it. Best laptime a little better with the RRS. The feeling though is quite different. There is potential in the sytem but I´m unsure of how to unlock it.
Were you able to use the 0.5-0.5 without the pin binding? My hingepin is too long to run straight on the rear without some amount of toe.
Originally Posted by
Holmenkollen
Won´t the wheelbase be very long with this?
Yes wheelbase will be longer, but that seems to be common in many of the setups. My 17.5 carpet car is 5mm front, 1mm rear of the arm, and my mod asphalt car is 6mm front, 0mm rear. The longer wheelbase calms the car down for me.