Originally Posted by
Johnny Wishbone
This is pretty much the same as what I did for setup. I think on a tight track the rear steer can be useful. JUst make sure your getting toe-in on compression and not toe-out. I saw one guy running it ass backwards and did nothing but complain on how bad it was, do ya figure. The total toe-in is something that you'll have to play with, just a personal preference thing there, no real solid number. The caster of the c-hub is going to be very small in effect as it will only change the wheelbase of the car very slightly and the amount that the wheel is turning isn't really effected for such a small rotation. I ran mine with the 4* c-hubs and they where leaning forward.
I feel spring selection depends on the track. We just ran our first leg of the WCIC series and I had my car on blue/black springs, changed the springs to pink/blue and picked up a full tenth of a second on fast lap. The springs where the only thing changed and I really thought the car drove well with the blue/black combo, but was faster with the pink/blue. For feel going to the pink front just made the front of the car bite in just that little bit better that the car was looking for. Its really all just personal preference again, and perhaps in this case a oil change may have made the difference, but the springs where easier to do.
Also of note I was surprised just how close your setup is to what I ran for this race. Although I was on the 1.4 bars and my rear diff oil was 3k, the rest is almost identical.
I can also tell you that I have tried different combinations on these cars, and running a 3.0 with the long shocks and towers was very much a nightmare. I think Serpent got the aluminum chassis with the short shock package very close to perfect. Now the 2.0 with the 2.00mm hard chassis and long shocks and towers works very well for me. But I believe a lot of this has the do with the plain issue of the mass of the car. The 3.0 can get away with the short shocks because its not rolling the chassis as much so its not using as much of the shock as the 2.0 graphite car does.
Interesting on the RRS. I was using the hubs angled back, but liked the feel better when I ran the shim under the rear block to level it out. It did affect the roll center though. I was told 6* angled back might be the way to go too, but I did not have any 6* to try.
I am fairly new to the Yokomo springs, and have always gone with HPI or the Reflex as both have always felt the best to me. The guy I practice mod with runs Yokomo springs sometimes and just wanted to be able to test similar to him and Chicky runs Yokomo shocks and so I assume springs as well, so again, just to compare. I think I need to pick up a second set of blacks to test with.
I have the long shocks on the asphalt 3.0 car right now, but have not had the same testing time on them as the short shocks. I really liked the short shocks though, so might end up changing back. Hard to say, but will see how the car works next week.
Originally Posted by
Johnny Wishbone
I'm pretty sure those static rear toe settings are more for asphalt than carpet. Usually asphalt will run a lot less rear toe than carpet. At .5/.5 you'll probably run into bind issues with the drive shafts into the gear diff. I have never played with such narrow settings in the back, but you should check for the bind and increase width until its gone and then go from there with the rear steer added toe.
Yeah I was just not sure how toe from the arms vs the knuckles was different on the rear. I know in the front running arm sweep (stock with the 3.0) and then various toe at the knuckles has different effects. I will say I was quite happy with 3* of rear toe on asphalt, much more then I expected to be. I tried 2.5 and 2 and the car did not feel as consistent in transition or in the sweeper. It just felt like I could not get on the power quite as quickly with the same confidence coming out of a corner as the increased toe gave me.