Originally Posted by
Linguster
I am still running one of my older Eryx chassies. I have not "been able" yet to get the new chassie not to bind in the plastic, but also in the front axle in the hub. I think that is maybe sorted out now. I put in a Kyosho outer hub bearing. This bearing has a smaller wall between the balls and the wall. I will know when I try. I can get it to move freely but coming in after one run the axle is not running freely and I need to take it appart again. My thought is that the plastic "wall" between the inner and outer bearíng is thicker and makes the pin "ride" on the bearingwalls. There is no slack that you could have in older kits and you needed to shim to get rid of the play.
I have the idea that the plastic that comes with the kit should be able to use, not need to put in parts from the spare bags...
Hi Bjorne, I think part of your bind problem is the same as one of the racers posted a couple of pages back.......I haven't got a new kit, but it sounds like the diff cams may be slighlty larger and when you clamp down the upper shock tower bulkheads its pinching the cam and causing your bind problem. Best thing would be to use either .1mm or .2mm shims bewtwwen the lower and upper bulkheads so that you can float the cam a little, this should fix the binding issue. The older cars didn't seem to have this problem, but just to check your car, once its assembled, use a screwdriver and see if you can move the cam just a little (floating), if you can't shim it till you get a little movement.
Originally Posted by
#iZzy
-why doesnt he glue the tire side walls on very high traction? at least last time I saw him in last years ets race, he did not prefer, but it is really hard to drive without traction roll.
He don't like it because it isn't looking cool 
Simple as it is, he is everytime trying to compensate this through setup & driving skills. If he really have no other chance, then he glue the walls.
I just ran a race with the same results with tires, many had roll issues, but our cars didn;t seem to have this problem, even without glued sidewalls.
-did you guys test high diff position? how was it on high grip carpet?
He tried it already and if i remember right the higher position had less grip and the car feels a bit more unpredictable. He prefer's the default diff position currently, but maybe he have to try around with this on some different tracks.
I have tried the diff up and down on carpet here and also found that the default always seems to work the best.
On a side note, our cars first versions with a few less adjustments seem to end up being the best setup options. New cars are coming out that seem to drop some of the adjustments and are closer to our cars format.
Originally Posted by
dan_vector
Has anyone tried the 2.0 hard chassis on high traction asphalt? Was it better than the standard ERYX chassis? What was the main difference in the way the car drove between the 2 chassis?
I think one of the differences that shows up more than the stiffness of the chassis is the difference in the lower roll centers, something that is probably forgotten when changing plates or looking at setups.
Had a really good weekend at the WCIC with a really sweet carpet setup.