View Single Post
Old 12-03-2013, 01:25 AM   #2470
alloyslash
Tech Addict
 
alloyslash's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Huntsville, Alabama
Posts: 538
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Default

Somehow you'll need to press the barrel back out of the bone for now. If you have a set of digital calipers, check the ID of the bone for roundness, as tight of a tolerance these things are engineered with a 0.02 difference in roundness will cause binding issues

What I do any time i am assembling a new set it find a drill bit that's diameter is LARGER than the hole inside the barrel, but SMALLER than the outside of the barrel. Coat the hole with Hudy Graphite grease. After installing the barrel inside the bone, place the tip ( barrel end ) on a hard surface. With the bit in a drill, press the bit against the barrel and spin it while holding the opposite end of the bone. The bit grabs ahold of the barrel and spins it inside the bone. Usually after a minute or two of this there is no longer any sort of resistance whatsoever. I then remove the barrel, coat it with Hudy Graphite grease and re-install. After completing the assembly I chuck the bearing / wheel end of the DCJ into my drill, loosly hold the opposite end of the bone between 3 fingers and spin it at WOT for 2-3 minutes at as much angle as the DCJ will allow. The end result is a completely broken in assembly, super free and ready to race. There is numerous ways everyone sets their stuff up, this is the way that has worked every time for me.
__________________
Pemberton SJ27 / Tekin RS / Cooper D4SS 17.5 / EAM 5000 / Futaba 9551 / 17.5lm
Pemberton SJ27 / Tekin RS / Bullet 13.5 / EAM 5000 / Savox 1251 / 13.5 Pro EDM

TLR22 / Tekin RS / D4SS 6.5 / Futaba 9551 / ORCA 6000 /SCMOD,
F14 carpet Oval Chassis too!

Last edited by alloyslash; 12-03-2013 at 02:09 AM.
alloyslash is offline   Reply With Quote