Originally Posted by
MostlyTorso
Mr. Hohwart, I appreciated your response and the advice on the Yokomo ball cups. May I ask what you (or anyone reading this) does about the movement the C-hubs make on the outer hinge pins? My parts are a couple races old now, but even brand new you can move the ball on top of the C-hub forward and backward on the car with a fair amount of movement. Do you notice this on your car, and if you have did you find it inconsequential or did you fix it somehow?
So in closing: The car is totally capable--I'm just picky!
I am crazy about slop and binding so I do whatever I can to make my cars perfect. With the AE car, this means gluing the inserts, using grub screws on the hub carriers and caster blocks (like evochick), and using shims on hinge pins.
The movement you describe might be a combination of several things. I think that using a grub screw (drill hole after inserts are glued) will fix most of this. You can shim the c-hub with a thin washer.
However I am not sure that a completely tight car is better. With my TC6.1, I have gone as far as buying and cutting drill blank material (slightly larger than stock pins) to replace the stock hinge pins and using the appropriately sized reamer to enlarge the holes that the pin fit in the arms is perfect. I even went so far as to match ball studs to ball cups (test fitting) to reduce slop but still remain free. If you do all of this and use grub screws, there will be pretty much no play anywhere.
Ultimately, another care of mine with standard parts (but with grub screws) worked equally well.