Jochim_18

iTrader: (10)

You don't need transverse battery mounted on this car... Here's my setup

Front:

Shocks = 30wt losi oil
Piston = 55 losi piston
Shock position = middle hole
Shock position lower arm = outer hole
Spring = avid white
Front Caster "Kick up" = 25 degree
Caster front Hub = 4 degree insert
Front toe = 0
Link position front = middle hole with 0.5mm shim under the ball stud and 0.5mm on C-hub under the ball stud.
Ackerman = 0 spacer
Ride height = 22mm
Camber = 0.5
Front tires = Proline M4 ribs with open cell


Rear:

Shocks = 25wt losi oil
Piston = 54 losi piston
Shock position = inner most hole
Shock position lower arm = outer hole
Spring = avid purple
Rear toe = 3.5
Rear camber = 2.5
Rear Link position = inside inner most hole with 2mm shim under the ball stud, use outer most hole on the rear hub with 1mm shims under the ball stud.
Rear tires = Proline M4 Tazer with open cell
Ride height = 21mm
Anti-squat = 0 degree
Rear Pro-squat = 0.5 degree
Rear arm = I use the RB5 SP rear flat arm
Suspension hangers = wide
Rear Wheelbase arm = 0.25 mm front, 0mm rear
Rear wheelbase hub = 1mm/1mm

Note: raise the transmission 1mm, ESC mounted in back. I added 30grams weight shoe goo to the chassis in between the ESC and motor. Flip the rear battery braise facing the motor so you can mount the shorty battery in the middle of the chassis. Take all chassis screws out on the side to give the car more flex.

Running mid motor on wet track is all about using the right tires... So far I can only run it on wet condition on our indoor clay track using Proline M4 ribs front and M4 Tazer rear using open cell "stock foam" can make this car to wheely if I get on the throttle early after downsiding a jump going up hill, everyone was really surprise how hook up my mid motor RB6...