Oh Crap...
After finally getting out an enjoying running 1/8th Gas On-Road again after 1 1/2 years AND have a blast, I read this and tend to get P.O.ed!!
Please hold off making judgments about the class until you have seen it being run, seen the cars up close and especially seen the new cars and how they work.
I am sure that the new WRC will have a proper pancar front end as defined by the European rules and the intent of the class. Just because you see what appears to be inner pivots in the upper arms doesn't necessarily mean that there is "suspension" being used. I am assuming (until I get mine!) that the lower arm provides the required stiffness. I'll apologize when I'm proven to be mistaken!
Howard, to try to address your specific points:
Let me modify my previous suggestions for suspension rules so that (as I understand it, at least) all of the cars now running will conform:
Fiberglass flexure is the only allowed springing means, other than the tires themselves. No metallic or elastomeric springs allowed.
Some of the existing cars do not have "Fiberglass chassis". Aluminum, carbon fiber, G-10 and a European fiberglass similar to G-10 but with a different designation. Because of this, IF all of this needs to be stated, it would need to allow for different materials... Also, on some of the cars there are rubber disks that are placed between the front axle and the pan. At first I thought these were "suspension" but I believe they actually act as a means to allow the front axle to pivot along the centerline of the chassis as on some cars they have been replaced by "pivot balls" so there is no flex or suspension only a rocking motion. On some cars this seems to be used as a tweek adjustment...
Spring damping must be via friction dampers only. Viscous dampers and elastomeric dampers are not allowed. Friction dampers must be run dry, with no liquid lubrication. (This eliminates the expense and maintenance of shocks.)
None of the existing cars have any type of dampeners that I am aware of. Some have stiffing bars parallel to the centerline of the chassis which can be attached in different points along their length to alter the flex. Others use the radio tray to accomplish this tuning. I know a very old Kyosho car used twin shocks from the front axle to the radio tray, so that should be eliminated before it starts. Hate to have to inspect stuff so close as to look for silicone oil between two plates...lol
The engine must maintain a fixed relationship to the rear wheels whenever the car is in motion. (This permits T-plate cars, or cars with other floating rear pods, as long as the engine and transmission is part of the pod.)
I think this is the secret to the whole deal. Unfortunately I think you need to define "fixed". "When a force of "X" pounds is placed within "Y" inches of each axle centerline, the chassis ride height may not decrease more than "z" inches." Unfortunately the tires may have to be removed so that you eliminate their deflection. I really think this is unnecessary for any "factory" built cars, but they should be used to determine the numbers. I think it is the only way to be sure modified or scratch built cars are actually not getting enough flex in their wheel locating parts to make a difference. I may certainly be mistaken but a suspension car chassis with "solid" bars in the place of shocks, may have flex in the arms...
I too would like to see a limitation on engine power. Personally, I have not had enough experience with intake restrictors in different engine port configurations to be certain that it would be a effective equalizer. But I know they worked great in Veco-McCoys and K&B 3.5's lol
(Howard-I haven't been commenting on the board much because of health issues and a blown engine in one of our 1:1 cars I replacing. I did sneak up from SC to Dayton for the last Midwest Series race and ran my DFX Vortex Pan or the "French Fry Car" as some call it. I had a blast...until the main ;-( )
These rules also allow someone to convert a suspension car to compete in the pan class