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Old 07-16-2013, 09:57 PM
  #701  
Phil Trotta
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Originally Posted by Salug
Thanks for the reply TT
Im using the v2 with no shims
tried 3d/3u with 300k and had some issues with it cant remember what but Il try it again. track temp here reaches 120 to 125 tried 45's but melted( tried also 5 out at the rear it was ok but i couldnt push the car on race situation. but I think you are right on me sacrificing pull. I tried really soft diff oil 30k, 50k, and now 100K sacrificing pull for turn in but that didnt work. turn in was there but had problems with exit fishtailing so now Il be going in that direction. Thanks TT
Ok. My opinion here is you need to try 4 droop front under screw in c hub 100k is. Ot heavy enough IMO I was runnin 300k front 40k rear which was kit supplied.100 make don't and 20 rear may make rear unload or ass consider that touring cars are half the weight and they use 200 and 60 lol.. A big problem is your rear hub are too foward. Move all the shims to the front of the upright which makes car longest

I would try 6 in fr with 4 in rr to the outside this gives you 4 deg toe in

Ty was spot on with watching tire wear for camber adjustment thats always the best method

I think the hotter the pavement or concrete the harder the tire you'll need to stop them from melting. I would say threaded tires may work better in concrete

I still think 800 cst will make car lazy. 1000 is spot on
Maybe adding + 2 hubs in rear also

Long link in rear too. Once it's locked in and. Not assing out we can start to free it up. Let's solve one problem first.


What body are you using ?
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