Originally Posted by
Granpa
Like in most things, it sort of depends on what you're trying to do. Zero rebound is a good default position, but having some rebound in the shocks can be useful at times. More than 2mm seems to be counterproductive regardless of conditions.
Originally Posted by
monkeyracing
I always try for zero, but end up with a little. Seems to work well.
Please let me amend my post cause it was, even being charitable, pure crap the way it was worded. It should have said that zero rebound is a good goal, not a default position. Rebounds of much more than 2mm is counterproductive in most conditions, but can be useful in some situations. Must be more careful in the future.
Jim's comment was very astute. It's nearly impossible to build a zero rebound shock using normal methods with TRF shocks when all their components are in good condition. When placing the top of the shock back on, you will have some air trapped inside the cap that cannot escape past the bladder or thru the cap even before the cap is fully tightened. As you fully tighten the cap, this air will be compressed which will cause the bladder to deflect and the shock shaft will be extruded. Thus a small amount of rebound and not a true zero rebound shock.
If someone has a procedure to build a true zero rebound shock without modifying the cap, please post it. I know I'd be very interested. And yes, I do know that you can drill a small hole in the cap to bleed out the air.