Thanks for the tip on drag brake, the more I think about it, my GT18 has a natural drag brake due to its belt driven design which is probably why I get the best lap times with it over any other car I've raced. My GT8 comes in as my second fastest lap counter, but you're right, the setup just isn't where it needs to be to unlock its full potential. I have the front as stiff as it can possibly get (within reason) with the rear as loose as it can get with the goal of trying to get the car to push than to spin out, perhaps I have the rear a bit too soft and will definitely add some drag brake too, heck I may add drag brake to my 1/10 spec cars also!
I've seen some folks refer to "Front One Way" diff as FOW, not really sure if this is common, I only bought the upgrade as an experiment and I really liked it, but I may have to swap it back to a regular diff if I plan to use drag brake.
Do nitros have a drag brake setting too?
My only experience with nitro is flying .40 size planes so I've never had to deal with low speed idle tuning or flameouts, just an occassional dead stick when forgetting to set my timer and running out of fuel, ha! I am not impressed with seeing so many issues the local racers have with keeping their engines running at the start of a race... poor PitRacer had to restart his engine 3-4 times before the start of the main this past Saturday. Granted he easily squashed the field with an easy win, but it appears that a good tune for racing conditions equates to a horrible tune for low speed idle conditions, hence reinforcing my logic to remain with electric.
We have a new racer in the class (newer than me that is) and the poor kid hasn't completed a single qualifier round to my knowledge without his engine cutting out on him
