OK. Racing is over tonight. The car was WAY better. I cant for sure pinpoint the "skipping" issue. It is however 99.348% better. My thought on the issue was that the car was rolling and or flexing so much that with the r9 body, the inside rear tire on the corner was lifting allowing the car to "diff out" . Or in other words, when the rear tire lifted, the diff would spin the one tire the opposite direction and thus creating the effect I experienced. Follow me? Initially tonight the car had a very minor case of my initial problem. By going from 5mm rear droop to 4mm rear droop, I had no major problems anymore. Or so it seemed.
I ended up with the following setup. It was stock to begin with. (mostly)
http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...stock_2012.pdf
only changes:
droop 6 fr, 4 r
white rear roll bar
stock 40Wt shock oil in all 4
asc blue front spring. stock silver rear springs (his is reverse of this)
25% rebound in shocks
stock piston config and bladders per manual
2k diff oil. with all 4 sat gears
1MM shim under ball studs inside all 4 camber links.
NO outer front ball stud shims.
Other than those changes mentioned above I copied this setup line for line. body, tires and all. Minus electrics.
Next week Im going to try the one Mike sent me from Rapid Competition.
This setup I ended up with left me with little to no chassis roll. The car felt VERY planted. It was lightning fast in the corners and I had EXACTLY the right amount of traction at corner entry though exit. It didnt matter if I was on throttle or off, in the corner. The car was stuck. I could put it anywhere on the track and be ok.
Qualified third and ended up second. There was 5 of us. One guy went home early. 4 started the round and finished so it was a easy open track for me to feel the setup working.
THANKS TO ALL WHO ASSISTED AND GAVE INPUT!
In reference to the servo question above. I run savox in every one of my r/c's. Depending on the servo, it may be wise to run a capacitor in to the receiver. I bought the premade Associated capacitor and crimped a plug on it to fit into a open receiver slot. Some servos under certain load will drain the system causing a "glitch" persay or even the transponder to not read. We have had this happen more than once at out track. Capacitors on the receiver and on the esc are never a bad idea in my opinion. Any 16v capacitor will work. The higher the "Uf" rating the more storage capacity it has. I run a total of 1500Uf between my esc and my receiver. the bigger the cap on the esc, the more punch it will give out of a corner. We have found that beyond 1200Uf on the esc is useless and no more than 900 on the receiver.