I think both of you need to relax.
IvVaum: It takes years and time to learn the craft of car modification - IMHO, it's not too far off from the real deal - you need to learn aerodynamics, suspension and many other things to be able to go at the speeds you want. It's also not something you can just read on a forum and poof, be good at it. Try things, work up in steps, learn, think outside the box.
As for a forum, as specific questions rather than "how do I go fast?" Also, don't try to cram 11ty-billion questions in one sentence, most will forget a lot of the questions before even getting to the end.
Bmr4life: Chill dude, there are tons of new people on here, don't need to be so critical after 1 post.
Also, things like saying you sold the car because you didn't like the controller isn't helping your credibility - most advanced car guys don't use stock radios in the first place and if you can't change out a radio, you're not that advanced.
(I'm sure you can, just explaining my point.)
One thing I'll comment on right now is tires - don't use rally tires for going fast, regardless if they don't balloon or not. Rally type tread is not something you want under your car when it's going fast.
Proper fast tires are GT belted tires. Here's a great place to get them:
http://www.sweepracingusa.com/18-GT-...set_p_265.html
As far as just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to Aero - you need to seal the bottom of the car - one of the MAJOR reasons RC cars can't go fast is the amount of air that gets under them and causes them to go airborne. You need to prevent as much air from getting under that lexan body and turning itself into a parachute. Most create an undertray that seals the entire bottom of the car to the body. Take a look at the XO-1's plastic undertray for an example.
Then there's work on front air dams (splitters) which prevent air from going under the car in the first place and act like a front wing and then there's the rear wing - too much is a bad thing. A lot of new people in the world of Aero put huge wings on the rear, which end up just distorting the lexan at high speeds because it's pushing it down or trying to pull the wing off, or worse, it creates too much downforce and starts to pick up the front end.
And then batteries, motors, oh my. 8s is just wrong. For one, trying to get that amount of batteries in the chassis is going to be difficult, not to mention the weight. Plus, try to find a reliable ESC that will handle 8s and the current to go with it. 6s is only really used for ultra high speed runs (greater than 100mph) IMHO. Work on a 4s (better to have 2-2s packs for even weight distribution) and then the ability to go to a 6s when you have all the kinks worked out. You should be able to do 60-70mph on a 4s pack safely before even trying a 6s. Take a look at this pic... its of OFNA's new onroad car - they stole my idea of moving the batteries to both sides and in back... this is what I plan to make a DM-1 chassis in Carbon fiber of:
But then making the chassis where it's the full size of the body, but in the layout of the above pic.
As you can see, there's a LOT to learn. Take it slow, try things and don't expect to put all this crap on your car and get it to go 100mph, consistently and with stability.