Originally Posted by
fullsyzz
I think the only way you can get away with changing the front track width by flipping the caster inserts is if you use the "0" insert. If you flip the 2 or 4 insert so the hole is on the outside I think it will screw up the caster, but I'm not sure.
For the reasons you've provided, I do not believe that the caster blocks (inserts) are meant to be flipped but rather switched left to right to change the hole position.
Originally Posted by
Cpt.America
aahh I see what you are saying... if you flip the caster insert over so the hole is towards the inside of the car, the front track is widened by the offset of the hole. This gives more front end stability, and slightly tamer steering. (higher roll center, box setup). If you run the hole on the outside, the track will come in, lowering the roll center, giving you a bit more steering. However, I don't know if the C-hub will rub the arm if running the short setting (is it designed as a tuning option?) Has anybody tried?
The Setup Sheet has the 'Block position' as a tuning option. Tebo ran the 'In' position at Nats. It would've been clearer if they just said wider track vs. narrower track position.
Originally Posted by
jpcopeland1
You will still have slop in that area if you dont use the optional 3x5x.01, .02 .03mm washers options. I personally like a little bit of slop in that area especially when it comes to the aluminum suspension holders.
The play/slop I'm experiencing is not due to the insufficient use of spacers/shims on the suspension shaft. I have the appropriate amount of spacers/shims (2.3mm total) to eliminate the back and forth play while achieving free arm movement. The slop is in between the bushing and the hole in the suspension holder. I'm sure the Alum holder matched up with the delrin bushing will take care of this.