Thread: 3 racing new F1
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Old 03-23-2012, 09:46 AM   #2129
liljohn1064
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shano83 View Post
And liljohn once again you were right
I changed the gap to 9.5mm and was easier to set.

And to everyone else thank you!
It was an accidental discovery. Only because I built my first set of links wrong did I catch it. It looked to my eye that the shorter links centered the damper piston better when the springs were preloaded at the ride height I wanted. So then I played with the shorter link theory and the piston in the damper body is now closer to the middle of its full range of motion. It doesn't bottom out or hit its extension limit in my ride height and droop setttings.


So to tune the rear end I:

1. Take off the damper springs.
2. Set the car on a block or ride height gauge at the desired ride height.
3. Estimate where the piston is in the shock body. (or open them up and mark the outside with a sharpie)
4. Center the piston.
4A. Measure the overall length of the damper from ball cup to ball cup and save this for future use.
5. Adjust the lower links until the wheels firmly touch the ground on both sides.
6. Put the springs back on.
7. Adjust the preload on the shocks to gain back the desired ride height.

Do this process once, then do steps 5 through 7 with the piston centered (4A) if you need to change ride height drastically.

My shocks are build to Zero rebound. Preload is NOT the same on both sides. The motor mount damper requires a couple collar turns more of preload to get the ride height the same on both sides. I'm measuring ride height at the center rear for overall and just in front of both rear tires on each side to make sure its the same on both sides.
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John Higgins former student of The Ian Ruggles Negative Reinforcement Driving School. The "Team Principal".

Last edited by liljohn1064; 03-23-2012 at 09:59 AM. Reason: future use
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