Originally Posted by
CristianTabush
Ok, I am no expert in carpet, but I have enough experience to give you some pointers on how I get to my set-up point.
1.Get your oil right.
How do I get there? I basically use oil for 2 things:
a.In the front I use it for responsiveness. If the car dives way too hard I go up, if it does not react quick enough initially, I go down. 50 sounds close, don't be afraid to try 47.5 or 45 just to see what the feel is like. I would start at 45.
b.In the rear I use it to control chatter. I basically would start with like 32.5 wt and I would go up until the rear does not chatter when coming off the fastest decreasing radius corners, like for example after the sweeper.
I like running oil as light as I can get away with. I feel it provides more consistent traction and it handles bumps best.
Perhaps one of the most useful bits of setup advice I've ever gotten. The really, really fast guy at my track, who's running a TC6.1, is running 45/40 with RSD pistons and bladders.
2.After the oil I mess with Toe in at the rear. Is the car sliding? Go up. Does it feel good? GO DOWN! it might just feel much better with less toe and yield faster laps.
I tried toe already. 3.0 is what I've run for 2 years in Stock TC on two different cars, and I've never found success with less.
I re-tried 2.5 this weekend, and it was a travesty. All traction completely vanished. Lap times were like a second slower. The really really fast guy runs 2.75 and makes it work, but I don't think I've got the wheel skills for that yet.
3.Springs: Start at 15.5/ 13.5. Adjust from there. Springs are very driver dependent. To a point. If the car feels right, go up to a 14.5 spring in the rear, it might just be better. If the combo of 15.5/14.5 feels good, try 16.5/15.5, it might just be better.
Going from 14.5/12.5 to 14.5/13.5, the balance improved. So I think I'm going to jump straight to 15.5/14.5.
4.Ackerman: So important! If it's too aggressive and over-steering, use a less aggressive setting (like A), usually I stick to the B setting on Carpet. Ackerman is such a useful tool.
I've never seen anything other than 7B ackerman and 2B steering link on a 6.1 setup, so I just assumed that was a given.
5.Camber, just make sure your tires are wearing flat. Typically 1-1.5 degrees get the job done.
Really flat, or mostly flat? I've always settled on -2 degrees. I usually get the groove of death on the inside edge, but any time I've gone under -2 degrees, I lose all my cornering grip. :/
6.Roll Centers. Start at 0B or 3A all around. Stick to one and tune from that roll center.
I'm at 3A. I didn't really try 0B much. Would 0B or 3A tend to be easier to drive overall?
7.width: +2mm FF an FR and then +2RF and RR whatever you need to find your toe.
Is that with or without the offset mounts?
Originally Posted by
CristianTabush
Bladders are back in stock!
Ordered.
Originally Posted by
dorkmissle
What's your droop?
Typical is 7 front, 6 rear on associated gage. Or 6 and 5....
Camber is ultra sensitive on carpet, 0.5 degree makes a difference. Also your gear diff oil can effect your rotating. 30wt for associated diffs, 800-1000 for spec-r....don't ask me why its different, it just is. too thick and you won't get turn in. you could take some out some rear toe and lighten up gear diff oil.....
I've been running 6f 5r in my 3-racing gauge, measured at the flat edge of the arm under the screw. Over the summer on asphalt with my Schumacher, I built up a tendency to run quite a bit of droop, because it made the car easier to drive, and helped it take a nice set in the corners. But this year on the carpet, if I have too much droop in front (on either the Schui or the tc6.1) the front end diffs-out really, really badly, to the point where the front-end will jerk quite violently. At 6f/5r the car has been quite smooth as I get onto the power, so I've just left it at that. Maybe I don't have enough droop, and that's making it feel a little skatey and inconsistent like the tires aren't working? Maybe I should mess with the droop some more to find the most I can run without diffing out really badly, or just go back to the spool.
I wish I had a better droop gauge that did .5mm increments. I have a Schui gauge that does, but it's too long, and the tip of it tends to hit the chassis. Maybe I should take a hacksaw to it.
EDIT: I've been running the rear diff with the kit oil, which I think was like 40wt? Anyway, it felt like it was getting freer and freer, and so I wanted to try a little heavier. I put in 50wt, and it felt freer than before I refilled it. So I put in 80wt, and it still feels really free. *shrug* Not sure what's up with that, but I tend to like the rear diff a little thicker, as it seems to counteract a bit of the corner entry rotation and on-power push from the front gear diff.
-Mike