Originally posted by King-G
Ratter, these mods arent really necessary, Tim Hillyear and Sean Rendell finished 1, 2 at the Vic titles at Boronia with std Mi2's.
I would start out with either of their setups, Sean used a Locked front diff, whilst Tim used a oneway. Perhaps speak to Tim on wednesday nights to get his entire setup and work from there..
At this point I wouldnt recommend doing the raised transmission mod, the benefits are negligible, and far greater gains will be found getting the car dialled in on track.
Raising the Transmission REQUIRES the Low towers, as you are altering the roll centres by raising the towers (Lowers the Roll centre) and Raises the Centre of Gravity)..not such a good thing.
You dont raise the motor mount, as this would raise the Centre of Gravity even further. For stock and 540 you can get away without raising the layshaft mounts, as it will slightly loosed the rear belt, and shoulnt be a problem in those classes with belt skip. (you do of course have to place the shims ontop of the mounts, between the topdeck)
Im afraid there are too many implications to explain right here..come to TFTR on a race day and seek me out, i'll explain it all further..
At this point dont bother with the raised transmission mod, Not worth it untill you get the Car dialled in for your driving style and track, once your consistency is down into the .20 - .30 region, then it may be worth while to experiment with, but right now you will see greater gains in speed, by focusing on your motors, batteries, driving consistency, and car tuning.
You can however raise the rear hinge pin mounts to see greater gains in cornerspeed...(raising the rear roll centre) . Raising the rear mounts, in .5mm increments will free the rear of the car in the corner (oversteer)...as you say you like. Raise them a small amount at a time, until the rear begins to feel a little loose, for best cornerspeed in 540 / stock. Just make sure you dont make the car difficult to drive in the process, its a fine balance, and a slippery slope once you go into oversteer, probably hurting your consistency if you go too far.
I most team drivers have found around 1 - 1.5mm spacers works well under the rear arms hingepin mounts, with 0 - 0.5 shims under the front arms mounts...basically raise the rear mounts untill the rear gets loose, but dont go over 2mm. keeping the front close to standard..This is not including the 2mm riser plates so you add the shims ontop of the riser plates by these suggested amounts.
The standard ballcups are very good, and regarded by many as being some of the best, unless damaged shouldnt be the cause of your steering slop. Check your steering bellcranks are assembled correctly, and the screw posts are tightened down just about till they cause the steering action to tighted up, this will reduce slop.
I really need to see your car, its a little hard to diagnose over the Net, and properly answer your questions.
Thanks for taking the time to answer the questions
When you talk about raising the hingepins, are you talking about useing thicker spacers than the one supplied in the kit or am I on the wrong track? If thats the case hoe about just using 2 of the spacers or is that too much of a jump.