Originally Posted by
cneyedog
Keven, I know on your setups you posted 1.5mm uptravel, What would your recommendation be to begin with on a high bit carpet track in droop #'s front and rear ?
Also, when the bite comes up and you adjust the droop setting, do you adjust the front, back or both to prevent the traction roll ?........
Say I start at 4 front and rear, and the bite comes up and my car starts traction rolling ...... which end and which way should I go on the droop # to help counteract the traction rolling ?
Thanks,
Rich
I usualy start at 5 rear and 6 front on most track and tune from there ! on high bite I usualy end up on 6 rear and 7 front. I also use droop to change the balance of the car in the turns. For exemple when the car gets loose mid corner I take some out of the rear to prevent rear weight to transfer over the front. So to help traction roll you want to go to a higher number on the ae gauge or less uptravel in other words. Hope this helps
Originally Posted by
pressure
Hey Kevin saw your race in New Rochelle last weekend and your car was dialed. Just a couple of questions . How do you determine your FDR? Do you use or "tune" your motor with different rotors? What type and how do you charge your batteries for a race ? And do you use expo on your steering or throttle? Yor car was on point and your driving was surgical.
I usualy run mod so I don,t play much with FDR but when running blinky, when you find a setup you like you should not need to change much from tract to track other than a tooth or 2. As for timing I was running 45 and ran stock rotor with 4.0 in New Rochelle but since I only get to run 17.5 blinky 2-3 times a year I don't get to play much with it. As for Expo I run anywhere from 0 to minus 10 depending on the track and how the car feels.
Originally Posted by
Robudda723
Keven,
What esc settings would you recommend for pan car using the lrp sxx comp v2 and what timing advance on the motor? We are Running on a smaller tight carpet Track. Motor is a Fantom ion3.
Thanks for the help.
I am not sure what the fantom is based on but I assume it is based of a trinity and I have never ran 17.5 in 1/12 so my guess could be off here. But here is what I think is a good place to start : 0/10/10/2 and work from there.
Originally Posted by
Infinite 12th
What does it mean on your IIC 12th setup when you wrote 2mm on top upper arm and what brand 20K do run on kingpins
Also what product do you use for diff oil in gear diff on your TC car and maybe a starting point for asphalt or carpet for that gear diff oil
Thank u
The 2mm on top arm means that there is 2mm in between bulkhead and the reactive castor block so that gives you a longer top arm.
As for the gear diff We run anywhere from 27.5-45 wt shock oil. I tend to like my car on the lighter side. Next time I run on asphalt I will start with 27.5. But that is in AE gear diff only. Spec R and yokomo will be different to achieve the same feeling
Originally Posted by
DARKSIDE
do ceramic bearings make that big differenc in VTA or 17.5 blinky?
Ceramic Bearing are nice beacause they last quite a bit longer but it will not really had any performance gain over a still good working regular bearing ! I think the best thing to do is to use ceramic in the drive line, (diff bearing and layshaft) and those should last a season !