Originally Posted by
SteveM
Drat.....foiled again. When I switched the front diff to move the belt to the other side of the chassis the belt is now fouled by the stock battery tray guides in the middle of the chassis. They have to come out which means I have to use tape on the battery. No biggie, just not as convenient is all.
It's possible to make it work with the battery strap. Someone I race with did it, but it was a lot of work with a dremel.
I got rid of all 3 "inside" and the center "outside" battery holder parts. Just left the 2 "outside" corners. Used the "foot" of the original motor mount on the "inside" center hole. Put the flat side of the "foot" towards the battery, concave side towards the belt, screw up through the hole in the bottom. The belt touches the "foot" but it doesn't bind or cause much friction and I haven't noticed any wear on the side of the belt that touches in in the 3 months or so that I've run it that way. Tape does the rest. I double up 2 pieces of battery tape about 14-16" long.
I only take the battery out for a couple of things. To balance charge -- on my battery, the tape covers the balance hole. I've punched a hole in the tape before, but I've always been worried that would weaken the tape too much. Other than that about the only other reason I take the battery out is to change the pinion or mess with the gear mesh. The tape lasts about 6-8 race days for me -- I race about 2x a week, so about a month or so. I do "normal" battery charges with the battery in the car.