shdwboxn

iTrader: (11)

I am getting back into the game since club racing in the late 90s (losi xxx, nicads, brushed motors, etc) and I had some questions and also looking for some advice. This site is super active, I read through a bunch of posts and a ton of pages on the official b5m thread, but there are hundreds of pages I am sure my question(s) have been asked before here and there, I just cant find them.

I already went down to a couple of local tracks and the consensus is the rc10b5m for 1/10 buggy (my preference). So, I found and purchased a complete rc10b5m used rig online, it should arrive in a few days.

- Looks like the car is completely stock, I plan on tearing the car down completely and putting it back together. While I am doing this, are there any pretty standard, useful parts I should look to replace while I am at it? screws, bulkhead, arm/stud mounts, etc etc

the electronics "confuse" me the most from what I was accustomed to.


- what is up with the motor "kv" rating? I found this somewhere:
Kv is the RPM per volt rating of motors. Most "winds" have very similar Kv ratings. Stock classes use a 17.5 (wind) brushless motor. the car is coming with HW ezrun wp-sc8 esc; should that essentially be able to handle most any motor I throw at it? (assuming 2s lipos) undecided if I am going to run in open or stock/blinky.

- ah yes, lipos. how do you calculate the C rating? I found this: C rating is used in conjuntion with MaH (run time) of the pack. Take the C and take the MaH then do math to see if that is what you want, the higher the better of course. 5000 MaH (or 50, chop the 2 last zeros off) 30C battery = 150a continuous power. but the math doesnt add up (unless you chop off 3 numbers from the MaH rating?)

- for transmitters/receivers, interference/crystals arent a thing any longer? looks that way from what I am reading, which is nice (the rig comes with a flysky FS-GT3B)

- deans plugs are still a thing? I saw some other "standard" connections.... the batteries use banana style plugs in the hard packs? and you'd attach your connector of choice to those?



thanks in advance... I bounced some of these questions off hobby shop employees/random racers I bumped into while checking out the local scene, and answers were fuzzy at best.

DirkW

iTrader: (1)

I think the EZRUN line is for sensorless motors only - in racing (1/10th scale) I'd recommend using a sensored setup.


You need to remove 3 zeros indeed to get from mAh (milli Amp hours) to Ah (Amp hours). So in your example it's 5 x 30 = 150.

Correct. 2.4GHz systems no longer use crytals.

Yes, many people still use deans. But also many people use other connectors. Personal choice really. There are lipo batteries with bullet plugs and others with cables (to which you can solder any connector you want) - or you can use an adaptor cable from bullet to any connector you want - but the less soldering points, the better.

shdwboxn

iTrader: (11)

re: sensorless... i didnt even realize, thank you for pointing that out along with your other responses.


- also with regard to lipos.... assuming theyre cool, can they be charged and reused >1x/day?
e.g.: pack1 used for qualifier 1/3 and pack2 used for 2nd qualifier/ main?

- on the brushless ESCs... I see pics with something coming off of them that isnt the switch/receiver cable... is that a small battery ? capacitor?

3D-Seth

iTrader: (36)

Charge and reuse as many times you want in the day. I usually try ago avoid charging while they're warm (tends to cut down overall lifetime of the pack), but you can charge them pretty dang quick. I've seen guys show up with one pack for all day. I personally have 3 or 4 depending on the platform I'm driving.

5 minutes of cool down, 10 minutes for charge and you're good to go again.

Seth

RcGuy13

You are way far back. Welcome back!

Motors: 1/10 scales sit around 3300kv to 4800kv for a good motor.

Lipos are really a game changer. The c rating it the "punch" that the pack contains and the higher the rating the better acceleration

Sinnin

iTrader: (10)

i too am just getting back into the game after a 25 year absence. I too got the B5M as my car of choice. And Ive had all the same questions that you had. I am still a little confused on a few areas but I'm learning quick. The good news is that out of all this confusion the 2.4 radio systems are an absolute thing of beauty over the crystals. no more checking-in your transmitter between heats and no more accidental step-ons!

However the one thing you may have overlooked is lipo charging. My charger (triton eq) and many others do not come with charging leads, so be sure to get that. Also the charger and battery literature were both very vague on balance charging. Make sure the charging lead you get has the balance port/plug on it.

shdwboxn

iTrader: (11)

yes... and the reception is much better, no more glitches

when you say charging leads..... you mean the little white plug? that is the last thing to arrive... the charger, from my ebay purchase (it was shipped separately for whatever reason, but should arrive today).

I completely tore down the car, cleaned it (thing was filthy) and rebuilt everything. put in a few aluminum parts/screws and rebuilt the shocks, new tires, body, etc. overall I am pretty happy.

imgur.com/ljoQo6d (cant post direct links yet)

I see youre in N. vegas? I am in vegas too.... are you going to be at 702 raceway? thats where I will be tmrw assuming the charger comes in

thanks everyone for the responses.

Tesla

ok here is a few things you should know and others just dont know..
17.5 is always a sensored motor..around 2100kv to 2450kv
then you have timing advanecement. I see people running 40 degrees of timing in stock class
Lipos.. there are 2 C rats you need to worry about
constant what the battery can deliver at a constant rate..ie 2500mah with 50c/100cb// thats 125 amps constant and 250 amps Burst say 10 seconds or so..\\ so C rate is 2 things .. constant and burst..

just to add to your confusion ..LOL

Mxer210

iTrader: (4)

its always good to put fresh arms on if they are beat up, also the aluminum C and D mounts are nice to have also so you can change the inserts out. but you do have to buy inserts they do not come with them

s1a1om

I started in February for the first time in 15 years. The thing that blows me away the most is how durable these cars are now. They just don't break. I've only replaced 2 items since I got started and that's with approximately 1 race and 1 practice session per week.

Welcome back!

jonage

Looks like this is the welcome back thread. I too just started back. My son just got a Slash for his birthday and i was really stoked. I had the original Stamped for back in like 1993. I still have the stamped and was blown away to see all the parts still in the shelf when I went to get a charger and more batteries for my son's Slash. My oldest son 14 didnt want to be left out so he just went and picked up a used rustler vxl with all rpm parts and (crazy fun car) I guess that means i get to build up my old Stamped. And the wife cant say anything because its a family thing lol.

I got the Venom Pro 2 charger. I like NiMh because I know what I am doing but that VXL Rustler came with a 3S LiPo 5500 11.1v maybe I will not burn down the house, but that 11.1v is night and day over the NiMh 5000mah 8.4v

shdwboxn

iTrader: (11)

funny you say that... i did buy the C and D mounts prior to even receiving the buggy, but didnt realize i needed the inserts. but i have them now, along with new rear hubs + the 8mm hinge pin set screws and a ton of slop is gone from the rear end.

I ran it at my local track a couple of days ago and had a weird issue (idk if i should post this to the electronics forum) but when I would land hard from a big jump, the motor would cut out for 2-3 seconds, but I would retain steering control. turnigy trackstar 120a turbo esc / 13.5 motor combo. A couple of guys suggested it was the sensor wire. I dropped in a different ESC/sensorless motor I had for the rest of the day. I have since replaced the sensor wire, but haven't been back to test it out. /fingerscrossed.

1spunspur

iTrader: (1)

I am trying to get into racing again and am having a lot of trouble understanding the electronics.I would like to know about sensor & sensorless.What does it do?I'm feeling a little sensorless myself right now.Also,I'm not sure about the numbers.I thought 17.5 referred to the kv.Above,the numbers mentioned were 2100 & 2400kv.Is this per volt?It doesn't sound right.If I remember correctly,brushed motors were rated at RPM per 4.8 volts.Anyway,where do the numbers 17.5 & 13.5 come from?

DirkW

iTrader: (1)

Those are turns (or number of wire windings on the electromagnet-part), just like in the brushed days (although back then it was the rotor, nowadays it's the stator that has the windings - and brushed had even numbers only, so 27T oder 17T, etc., while with brushless they mostly have a .5 at the end, hence 17.5T for example.)

KV ist RPM per volt, and that is usually a 4-digit number between about 1800 and 6000+.

Sensorless, 1/8the scale or 4pole SCT motors are usually marketed by KV rating, while the 1/10 scale racing (sensored 2pole 540 size motors) are usually marketed by the number of turns).

For 1/10th scale racing I'd recommend sensored motors as they are smoother to control in the lower RPM band.

Hinch45

iTrader: (16)

I bet you will look back at this thread in about 6 months at laugh. today's equipment is easier, lasts longer and just all around better. there are few more companies now then back then and no more cloths pins on your radio antenna. Oh and no more antennas.