thebeebe5

hello all. Hoping to find an answer here....

My son has a ECX Torment that is 3.5 years old. It has had the motor replaced (currently a 20T dynamite) and the ESC replaced (currently a Tazer 10T). Recently replaced the gear set with ECX's metal gears and bought him some new NiMH 3000mah batteries as he has regained interest after a year layoff.

Today he carried the car in to me and pointed out that the wires from the ESC to the motor appear to have gotten quite hot, are a bit misshapen and the insulation that covers the bullet connectors is melting and turning brown. Now, last weekend when we had it apart to R/R the trans gears it was all fine and indeed appeared new.

What should I be concerned about here? I checked resistance through the motor and found a 0.2ohm reading, but I have no idea if that's normal or even a valid measurement just checking between both wires. Before we really burn something up what do we need to check?

sakadachi

iTrader: (1)

Been away from RC over a decade, but I think the concept is still the same with the latest electronics. Your motor is pulling more amps than the wire can handle.

Did you change gearing or advance the timing on the motor (or through your ESC)? That usually makes the motor run hot and also the wires. Also make sure your gearbox turns freely without the motor. It could be that the gears are meshed too tight or binding somewhere. Hope this sheds some light.

First I would do is verify that your gearbox turns freely, then run a smaller pinion or larger spur, turn timing back to zero or default.

sakadachi

iTrader: (1)

Also if those are standard bullet connectors they aren't very efficient. You'll want to directly solder the wires between the motor and ESC if you continue to have such issues, or try the other type connectors they sell for brushless motors.

BigBadDogg

thebeebee.. Replace or eliminate the bullet plugs between motor and esc . use 4mm Not the alluminum one on it.. or just solder new 12 ga wires from esc to motor.. dought timing is advance on a 20t dyn. motor think it is locked.. Id alo recheck the pinion spur gear mesh.. use a piece of paper folded over twice to do this .Yes it does work.. mash it inbetween pinion and spur tighten motor..

sakadachi

iTrader: (1)

Thanks!

thebeebe5

Fellows,

Thanks agian for the responses. Here's a f/u:

Last weekend I had wondered if the motor had something in it causing it to draw amps as you all mentioned. The motor finally failed yesterday, this after asking the boy to check it for debris. He had blown it out with compressed air last weekend, but when removing the motor this am a fairly large rock fell out....

I think the problem has been solved.

Regarding resistance in the trans gears; they roll extremely smoothly, even compared to the high quality stock genuine plastic gears supplied by ECX. The metal set is like marbles on glass.

Regarding setting spur gear/motor gear mesh, I was taught to use the paper as an interference check as well. It's served me perfectly through two motor changes and one prior trans rebuild on this car. I'll keep using it!

Regarding soldering wires, that's easily done with the next motor.

Now, regarding the next motor....

NOT going to brushless (no matter how much he begs). I don't believe the Tazer 10T is rated for that (though it is, as I understand it, rated for LiPO batteries). One thing I do like about them though is that they are SEALED so rocks don't end up in there in the 1st place. Assume there are no brushed motors built this way...? (edit: searching rcmart now and see it appears there ARE some that look to not have huge, rock sucking vent holes) Any suggestions for a dynamite 20T replacement? The dynamite is nice and cheap and we'll likely put that one back in, but I'm certainly open to suggestions with my very limited experience and knowledge.

edit: Also, searching the forum and looking for a good explanation on the "T" value I see on motors. Can anyone direct me to a link?