connormorrison9

Watch this video and please tell me what is wrong with it as it isnt skipping or anything, it does the same thing with the lipo battery but sparks aswell?

youtube.com/watch?v=1InZ18vRsyI

TeamSkunkwerks

iTrader: (142)

Link is not working. Might just try to walk us through the problem.
What is it & what's it doing?

spookie

iTrader: (25)

Here you go
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1InZ18vRsyI

+ YouTube Video

spookie

iTrader: (25)

Oh it sounds like gears skipping right at the end of the vid, spur mesh too loose? Maybe a stripped gear in the trans/ center dif?

Dave H

Sparks, are they coming from the white battery connector by any chance? Even if not those connectors are very limiting, I would replace them with a better connector. Deans, EC, Traxxas, etc. Just be sure to handle one wire at a time on the battery packs, don't short out the packs.

Govert

Put in some fresh batteries. I believe those are some old Tamiya Ni-Cad batteries. If so, they might have problem delivering enough power. It does not really matter how many winds your motor has. The battery does not keep up under load, so it seems.

Another thing, you are talking about sparks. Where are they coming from? The battery connector? First off, please get rid of the Tamiya style connectors and solder some deans or 4mm gold plated bullet connectors. But before that, try another battery, preferrably a lipo, if your esc can cope with a lipo (I'm quite sure it will).

Poor connection can also limit/disturb current running from your battery to your esc, causing this behaviour.

To be sure, it's a sensorless esc-motor combo, right? Just to be sure? Otherwise it would be wise to change sensor wire.

EDIT; I read you tried it with a lipo as well. Fully charged? Good condition lipo?
Another thing you can try/check is the low voltage cut-off setting. Maybe it's set too low, causing things like this.

connormorrison9

the connections are new so they should be fine,they could be gone but im abit of a noob when it comes to electric cars?

also they lipo battey was fully charged and new, could it be putting to much power through the car causing some sparks to come from the motor wire connection to the esc? as the motor got hot with the lipo battery?

i also cant seem to get the car apart as it so old its basically welded itself together unless im being silly? so i cant check the gears but it seems the gears are new from when i brought the car?
also not sure what the mesh is could you explain please?

i also set the cut off voltage to all the different setting and it still got all shaky etc, it seems to sometimes run itself aswell in the video when it reverses, it did that itself?

as i said im new to this so youll have to explain what some things mean, sorry

connormorrison9

i took apart the car finally and changed the gears and clutch nothing was stripped but i had new spares, they are perfectly fine but i have realised when i hold the pinion gear on the motor it doesnt move it feels likes its just soinning inside if you know what i mean as if something has worn away, the pinion gear is stuck on so its deffinstley not that.

this could mean i need a new motor right?

Govert

It's not the gears. I could see and hear that right away. It has to do with your electrics.

Your motor does not turn easy? Or does it feel like the ball bearings in the motor are worn? Or does it feel like you try to turn your motor (by hand) and it feels like the inside of your motor is stuffed with cotton pads? That's how I most of the time describe it when a motor feels dead.

About the connectors, it doesn't matter if they are new or old; these "Tamiya style connectors" are bad. Always. Doesn't matter how new they are. They are well known for making bad conection and high resistance. So you always do yourself a favor if you use other connectors that are mentioned above.

Did you also follow the BIND procedure of your radio and receiver? Making sure they recognize each other...Did you bind them?

Did you , after binding, calibrate your ESC as well?

If all YES, try to turn off cut off voltage. Just to see what happens after that...

Also, when testing your electrics, use the lipo for now. In that way I'm sure there is enough power available, instead of an antique Ni-Cad (not trying to flame you)...

Govert

Also, try to video all of your equipment, close up. So radio, motor, wires, receiver, etc etc. Give us a clear view please...That can help.

spookie

iTrader: (25)

If you can hold the pinion and the motor armature does't spin, like you describe above, but the motor sounds like it's running, it means the magnets have debonded from the armature.

I had a Traxxas Vxl 380 do that, guy I got it from ran it way way hot and it did just that. The magnets would spin inside the case, but wouldn't spin the armature. It happens when the motor has been really hot, and the glue they use to glue the magnets to the rotor or armature, lets go. Mine didn't cog like this, just spun the magnets and wouldn't move the rotor and pinion.

Just replace the motor. Recalibrate the esc, and go have fun. Make sure it doesn't get really hot again.

connormorrison9

Yeh I realise I need to film it better was just trying to show what it was doing

And Yeh does sound like its to do with the magnets, I'll buy a new motor asap and let you know how it goes, thankyou all for your help !