bvoltz

iTrader: (44)

I would like to know how to measure the interal resistance of a battery or battery pack. Can anyone share with me how I would go about this.

Platinum_Racing

Man, you really love these electrical engineering questions!

There is no effective way for an average R/C racer to check the IR rating on a cell. It requires expensive equipment and is impractical and unneccesary for the average user. If you tell me the packs your using or the cells you want checked out I can find the cell average for that batch of cells.

bvoltz

iTrader: (44)

Sorry, I did not know that is was not possible... That is way I posted my dumb ass question here

I'm running stick packs (Super Duty Plus 3000) for off road, because it is .... off road But winning with them.

jamescam

iTrader: (10)

You could get something like the Spintech Battery Manager or Trinity Dyna Pulse. Both are great dischargers that work to break down internal resistance. After discharging (full discharges can take up to 6+ hours) it shows you the Volts, Capacity, Resistance, and Run Time of the pack.

Phatkat

iTrader: (14)

I use two Duratrax Ice's, and after cycling, they will display a buttload of info, including the I.R.

Platinum_Racing

The Duratrax Ice has that feature? I figured that for $120-140 it wouldn't have too much more than selectable amp rates and adjustable voltage cutoffs. Good to know!

The Spintec is about the $100-$130 range, and the Trinity is around $65 if you are considering any of these choices. I just don't think it's practical for those packs. I believe Orion mainly uses Sanyo cells for their batteries. They do have GP3300 cells, but judging on the price of the batteries I doubt that they are from GP.

They are good batteries that will give you good longevity and performance, but when your looking to upgrade look for Gold Peak cells in a side by side configuration. No one says they have to be matched, but it does help.

EDIT: I never said it was impossible, just that it was an expenisve feature. It's more of an added bonus when a charger tells you the IR, not really somehting you look for while shopping around.

Phatkat

iTrader: (14)

Heck yeah, the Ice is shaweeeet. I was skeptical too, but read all the good reviews, and bought a couple.

Platinum_Racing

I don't mean to hijack your thread, but I got to ask...

What rates does it charge at? I'm just curious because my LHS is liquidating some inventory and I think I can get a deal on some stuff, and a charger may be on my list.

Now we return you to your regularly scheduled topic already in progress.......

Phatkat

iTrader: (14)

Here are the specs.....


*** Five-Year Warranty ***

FEATURES: Handles 1-10 NiCd or NiMH cells, and 1-4 lithium-ion (Li-Ion) or
lithium-polymer (Li-Po) cells
Wide adjustable current ranges for fast charge (0.1-8.0A) and
discharge (0.1-10.0A) are ideal for electric cars, trucks and boats
Four charge modes, linear, reflex, impulse and 4-step plus optional
battery temperature monitoring (sensor not included, must purchase
DTXP4171)
"Constant current/constant voltage" charge method for Li-Ion/Li-Po
batteries
Reverse Polarity Protection
Peak detection with adjustable sensitivity for NiCd and NiMH
batteries
0-500mA adjustable TRICKLE charge current for NiCd and NiMH
0.8-1.1V adjustable discharge cut-off voltage for NiCd and NiMH
2.5-3.7V adjustable discharge cut-off voltage for Li-Ion/Li-Po
Performs 1-10 cycles (NiCd and NiMH only)-retrieves data for 10 full
cycles
Stores info for up to 10 batteries in memory by custom names for easy
recall and charger set-up
LCD screen shows 8 lines of data and 21 characters per line
1.0-8.0V adjustable output, time adjustable from 1-120 minutes and
10A constant current (30A surge) for motor break-in
Also breaks-in electric motors and operates commutator lathes

INCLUDES: One Duratrax Intellipeak ICE charger with banana jacks on output
** lead, alligator clip charge leads, Tamiya style charge lead,
input lead with pre-installed anana plugs, large alligator clips,
and instruction manual

REQUIRES: 12V DC power from a power supply or automotive battery or
Hobbico 12V Power Supply (HCAP0250) or
Rivergate 15A DC Bulldog Power Supply (RHCP2015)
To achieve Ice's absolute maximum output power capabilities the
DC power source must be capable of delivering at least 15A while
maintaining 12V DC (although 12.5A is enough for most functions).

SPECS: Input Voltage: 11-15V DC

Battery Types, # of cells:
1-10 Nickel Cadmium cell (1.2-12.0V)
1-10 Nickel Metal Hydride cells (1.2-12V)
1-4 Lithium-Ion or Lithium Polymer cells
(3.6-14.8V)
Battery Capacity Range: 100-9900mAh
Fast Charge Current: 0.1-8.0A linear, reflex, impulse and 4-step
Fast Charge Termination: Peak detection for NiCd and NiMH
"constant current/constant voltage" for
Li-Ion/Li-Po, optional thermal cutoff for
all battery types
Peak Sensitivity: 0-25mV adjustable
TRICKLE Charge Current: 0-500mA (n/a for Li-Ion/Li-Po)
Discharge Current: 0.1-10A adjustable
Discharge Cut-Off Voltage: 0.8-1.1V per cell NiCd & NiMH
2.5-3.7V per cell Li-Ion/Li-Po
Temperature Cut-Off Range: 50-132° F
Cycle Count: one to ten (n/a for Li-Ion/Li-Po)
Cycle Cooloff Delay: 1-30 minutes, adjustable
Battery Memories: 10
Display Type: 8x21 LDC (168 characters max)
Graphical Displays: Graphs charge and discharge voltage curves
Output Connectors: Banana jacks
Motor Break-in: 1.0-8.0V selectable, 1-120 minutes, 10A constant
Case Size: 5.5" x 1.8" x 5.9" (140mm x 45mm x 150mm)
Weight: 21 oz (605g)

Platinum_Racing

Wow. Is it any good for Li-Poly cells? How do you think it would match up with Scorpion Li-Po chargers?

Sounds pretty cool, if you ever want to ditch one give me a stab at it before it hits the For Sale forum.

Phatkat

iTrader: (14)

Right on. It will do Li-poly and Li-ion.

bvoltz

iTrader: (44)

Hey any time that someone wants to share information, I'm all for it.... So please let the questions fly... I will be more then happy to read

I understand that "stick" batteries are not for my new venture, on-road, I'm in the process of learning and purchasing after I learn, so better batteries for my on-road on my list, but I think a Ice Charger is also going on that list. Since I started in the sport back in July, and love it, I need to "control" my spend, the wife was a little pissed witht the investment, but like I told her, I do not bug you, if you know what I mean, so she is letting it fly....

I'm really trying to learn as much as possible, and how to do things.... So have a good shop going here... many toys to play with...

Platinum_Racing

Now that I know the ICE has the capability to charge LiPoly packs and all those other goodies, I think I just may have to grab one myself. Great stuff PhatKat!

Phatkat

iTrader: (14)

For batteries, I use these- http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...3&I=LXCZV8&P=K

They're just about as affordable as batteries get, and I have yet to screw them up. They seem tough, and provide plenty of pow.

Team Duratrax

For a little less, you can buy assembled GP3300's from www.hyperform-racing.com, but i guess most racers/people like to assemble their own cells am i correct?

Some of you may have heard of the FMA Direct Supernova 250s charger/discharger? That's the one i use.

- 1-25 cells
- fan cooled
- Up to 5.0a
- Up to 5000mah
- Discharge up to 3.0a
- Fits in your pocket
- Sound
- Polarity alarm

Sean