darkdays

Hi to all.

First of all, I was quite unsure whether to post this in the rookie zone or would it be more suitable in the radio and electronic thread but I chose here as I guess forumers would be more tolerant towards beginners like me.

After building up my first kit and purchasing a new Sanwa MT4, I was overly eager to try my hand at the tracks but alas, I was quickly overwhelmed by the transmitter manual. I am baffled by all the jargons of epa,trim,offset,dual end points,etc etc....The only thing I managed to do was to bind the transmitter and receiver.

So, can anyone help me understand,simplify in layman terms of all the various jargons and what exactly does it do? And which is more important to take note etc etc...

Thanks in advance.

roadrashracing2

not your radio but airtronics does a good job explaining what everything is and does, beside items listed here I would not worry about everything else:
http://www.airtronics.net/media/uplo...sers_Guide.pdf

locked

iTrader: (1)

I'll try to start with the basics you'll need. With the car on a stand so the wheels don't touch the ground (After ensuring that the steering linkages are equal lengths and the servo horn is as close to centered as possible), use Sub-Trim to finish off any alignment needed so steering is perfectly centered in the neutral position.
Make sure dual rate(steering rate) is at 100% then go into the EPA(end point adjustment) menu. click into the left steering number and use the dial to lower that to around 50, then slightly turn the steering wheel right and the right number will become selected. Turn the right side also down to around 50. now slowly turn the steering wheel to full lock right. While holding full lock, start turning up the EPA number just until the servo starts to buzz, then back it off a notch until it isn't buzzing at full lock.
Do the same thing for the left full steering lock.

Now try driving the vehicle. If you feel like steering is too twitchy, turn down the dual rate(also called steering rate) until it's more manageable. If you find it pulling one way or the other, use sub trim to get it driving straight, but then go back and re-check the EPA settings, as they may have to be changed after changing the sub trim. Always remember to turn dual rate back up to 100% before changing EPA settings.

I'm not a fan of using EXPO, I prefer steering to be linear, but some people do like it. Expo allows you to slow down the center area so steering is less twitchy for small movements, but it will speed up as you get to full lock.

There are a lot of features that I've never used. Probably many that almost no one ever uses.

The basics above should at least help you get your vehicle to not be hindered by radio settings. The other stuff, maybe someone else can chime in on here.

locked

iTrader: (1)

I should have mentioned that the above was a more quick and dirty, easy setup. Ideally, I like to just use sub trim to get the servo horn (or horn style servo saver) to be perfectly set at 90 degrees to the servo case. Then use a turnbuckle wrench to adjust the link from the servo to the steering rack to get it all centered, while the car is in my setup station. Then remove the setup station, put the car on a stand and do the EPA settings.

timannnn6

iTrader: (140)

Also make sure your turnbuckles are the same length (measure with calipers). If one is too long and the other short it throws off everything.

darkdays

So I have done as to what locked as mentioned. I had to subtrim my servo up to L120%. Now my question is, what is the difference between the trim and subtrim? Can I evenly distribute the values between both of them,Trim L60% and Subtrim 60%?

Also, what are the aux 1 ch3 and aux 2 ch4 for? And where can I change the values for my reverse as I feel that it is too much now?

timannnn6

iTrader: (140)

If you have to use that much subtrim I would try taking the servo horn off and move it 1 tooth in the left direction (left I presume as you stated 120% L in your post above). Make sure you zero your adjustment again on your radio before moving the horn. Then adjust subtrim again. The only two settings I use are subtrim (to center the servo horn) and EPA (end point adjustments) to tell the servo when to stop left to right.

Dave H

Subtrim and trim are different. Subtrim will move the endpoints. Trim does not. Always adjust in this order:

1) Mechanical adjustments as mentioned previously.
2) Use Subtrim to center steering
3) Set endpoints for left and right travel
4) Then use trim for ongoing center steering adjustments

Never hurts to check endpoints occasionally as parts wear and such.


Note many RCs have unbalanced steering linkages, many off roaders for example. Where the servo horn is above the rest of the linkage. Steering in either direction flattens the link, causing an error in the same direction. On these a better balance is achieved with the horn tilted inward slightly at straight steering (with shorter horn to steering link).

darkdays

Ok noted.
What abt aux 1 ch3 and aux 2 ch4? Which values should I change for reverse power?

locked

iTrader: (1)

If your steering is backwards, you can switch it in the reverse menu. Or if you are running a 3rd or 4th channel for something like locking the rear dif on a crawler, you can reverse it if it's the opposite of what you desire. That's really all that section is for.

Maybe you are asking about the car going in reverse? If your vehicle does not go in reverse (forward + brakes only), that is controlled on the ESC, not the radio. Some speed controllers are meant for racing only and do not offer reverse, since reverse is not allowed on race tracks. Most do have an option for Forward + Reverse or Forward + brakes + delayed reverse, but setting that depends on which ESC you have.

Are you asking about the car going in reverse or about reversing a servo?


Note, if you had already set end points, then realized your steering was backwards, you will need to redo the EPA settings after reversing the steering servo.


EDIT: after re-reading your post a couple of comments back, I believe you are asking about slowing down the car when it goes in reverse. That would be done in the ESC software. Which ESC do you have?

Dave H

You can also turn the reverse power (or brakes) down from the radio with Trim Switch 4 I believe.

Most racers don’t use the auxiliary channels 3 & 4. They are only needed if you are using them for some feature, frequently with an additional servo. Like a 2 speed or reverse tranny, the locking diff mentioned, rear steer on a monster truck, mechanical brakes on an electric 1/8 scale, front & rear brakes on a large scale, are some examples. Or maybe turning lights on and off, etc. Frequently they are mixed channels from the steering or throttle channels.

darkdays

Thanks guys. I think I finally get the gist of the basic configurations or at least I know enough to run it. I just have to do more experimenting as there's no one magic formula for it.
So I assume to get the aux channels to work I need a servo for it too. All this while I assume that's not being the case.
As for the reversing power, I guess you can't change the power to it on the transmitter which I assume I could.
Oh yah btw, I'm using Novak Havoc esc.

Dave H

Yes you can adjust the reverse power from the transmitter. Either by using Trim Switch 4, or the EPA on the brake/low side of the throttle channel.