gelshocker

iTrader: (1)

I've seen vids of people pre-cleaning lexan bodies with liquid detergent-warm water-scrub, leave to dry procedure.

I've tried this but the paint still flakes off after the first run. I use Tamiya PS series spray paint.

What are you guys using to clean the lexan before applying paint?

I bought a small bottle of Tamiya Polycarbonate cleaner (not had time to use it yet). Anyone have experience with this?

http://www.tamiya.com/english/produc...nate/index.htm

cdewalt1985

iTrader: (17)

all most of use is warm soapy water and dry real good, remember dont touch the inside after you wash due to oil on fingers....I never have any issues

B.AUSTIN

I use warm soapy water and dish soap. but i have had the same problems with tamiya paint. i used it once and it flaked like no other. for every other body I've done I've used pactra paint and never had an issue with it. so maybe try switching paints

Walkman

iTrader: (29)

Warm water and I use Dawn dish soap. I let it soak for 5 or 10 minutes then wash it and be sure you keep rinsing dish soap can be hard to rinse. Let it completely dry and do not touch the inside once clean or you will need to start all over.

mkiiina

iTrader: (71)

Quick rinse with hot water and let air dry. If I'm in a hurry I will use a micro fiber cloth and hit the wettest spots.

I use the tamiya PS paints too (metallic blue, metallic red, pactra metallic black to back) and have yet to have a problem. I have destroyed a few offroad bodies and vta bodies and have yet to have it flake.

racer1812

iTrader: (31)

Been doing it this way for 20 years, works fine. No need to spend money "cleaners" IMO.

FYI any paint put on too thick is going to flake off. Fluorescent colors are one of the worst as far as flaking off.

modelfan

iTrader: (1)

I don't think your problem is in the prepping of the lexan. Flaking will always be an issue. Pactra and Tamiya paint is more resilient but the Faskolor stuff seems to flake off too easily.

You should try sealing the whole paint job with an enamel backer. Rustoleum, Krylon, Painters Touch, take your pick. They all work the same way. I personally use a gloss black as it's easier to clean the body after a day of racing. Also the paint is impervious to nitro fuel (if your application warrants).

I usually apply a thicker coat to the front of my bodies since that's where most of the impact occurs. Since using the backer, although eventually the paint will chip from repeated impact, they've been holding up considerably well compared to previously untreated bodies.

There's lots more info in the 'Painting, Designs, Graphics' section on this topic.