Soldering
10-19-2011, 04:53 PM
#1
Soldering
I am still trying to get my Blitz SCT ready to take out to the track. I have been working on it trying to get it race ready! After practicing getting used to driving it, I stepped up and bout a motor/esc combo....I was all excited about getting installed and I sat down to do it then I saw the stuff about soldering......
I have no experience doing this at all...Is this something I need to learn or should I take it somewhere to have it done for me??/
Thanks
I have no experience doing this at all...Is this something I need to learn or should I take it somewhere to have it done for me??/
Thanks
10-19-2011, 05:26 PM
#2
I am still trying to get my Blitz SCT ready to take out to the track. I have been working on it trying to get it race ready! After practicing getting used to driving it, I stepped up and bout a motor/esc combo....I was all excited about getting installed and I sat down to do it then I saw the stuff about soldering......
I have no experience doing this at all...Is this something I need to learn or should I take it somewhere to have it done for me??/
Thanks
I have no experience doing this at all...Is this something I need to learn or should I take it somewhere to have it done for me??/
Thanks
10-19-2011, 05:45 PM
#3
Seeing as it's your first time, I'd suggest having someone experienced do it. A poor solder joint adds resistance and is at a greater risk of breaking (leading to possible component damage) than a well done joint, and it looks like crap to be honest.
However, learning to solder your own components is an important skill if you are serious about racing, and starting with good equipment is the way to go. I'd suggest a TK 950 soldering station by Trakpower and some 63/37 rosin core solder to start. Also, check out this video. It's more geared to circuitry, but it applies to all forms of soldering.
However, learning to solder your own components is an important skill if you are serious about racing, and starting with good equipment is the way to go. I'd suggest a TK 950 soldering station by Trakpower and some 63/37 rosin core solder to start. Also, check out this video. It's more geared to circuitry, but it applies to all forms of soldering.
| + YouTube Video | |
10-19-2011, 05:54 PM
#4
sooner or later you are going to have to learn but since its your first time i would take it the your LHS and ask them to do it. im sure they will do it for free if you have all the connectors and stuff.
10-19-2011, 06:32 PM
#5
I am still trying to get my Blitz SCT ready to take out to the track. I have been working on it trying to get it race ready! After practicing getting used to driving it, I stepped up and bout a motor/esc combo....I was all excited about getting installed and I sat down to do it then I saw the stuff about soldering......
I have no experience doing this at all...Is this something I need to learn or should I take it somewhere to have it done for me??/
Thanks
I have no experience doing this at all...Is this something I need to learn or should I take it somewhere to have it done for me??/
Thanks
Good luck
10-23-2011, 06:18 PM
#6
Tech Rookie
$80+ solder station? for a guy that wants to solder a motor? really?
dude, grab a semi decent 25w one from BB or whatever electronics store near you..
$10-15 will do... and practice on some bit of scrap motor or just joining wires - practice the techniques you see on youtube.
I've designed and built many audio amps (including SMDs) and have built a megasquirt (real) electronic engine control unit from scratch using a cheapie $10 archer brand 25w iron.
i have graduated to a nicer $17 nicholson 25w iron... i might get a 40w for heavier stuff, but for electronics 25w is what u need.
in the us u can get a nicer weller for 15 bucks...
ebay item: 519b1266
hakko japan is another very nice brand...
dude, grab a semi decent 25w one from BB or whatever electronics store near you..
$10-15 will do... and practice on some bit of scrap motor or just joining wires - practice the techniques you see on youtube.
I've designed and built many audio amps (including SMDs) and have built a megasquirt (real) electronic engine control unit from scratch using a cheapie $10 archer brand 25w iron.
i have graduated to a nicer $17 nicholson 25w iron... i might get a 40w for heavier stuff, but for electronics 25w is what u need.
in the us u can get a nicer weller for 15 bucks...
ebay item: 519b1266
hakko japan is another very nice brand...
10-25-2011, 11:19 AM
#7
All you need is a 40w iron or more. I am using a 60w and it works perfectly. But since its your first time take it to your LHS.
10-27-2011, 11:45 AM
#8
I have a little cheap 25w solder iron and it is really difficult to solder the big wires on an esc or motor as it just does not get hot enough. I ruined a couple of connectors before I could get them to solder and I have been soldering pc components since I was 20 years old (19 years). I would get at least a 40w and some extra connectors as well.
10-27-2011, 12:02 PM
#9
Tech Rookie
I'm a noob to RC in general, but I've got some experience with soldering.
My advice: Get someone that knows what they're doing to do it for you, and look over their shoulder while they do it. I definitely concur with the other posters here: You'll need to learn how to do it eventually if you're going to play with any kind of electronics as a hobby, but you definitely shouldn't lay your first beads on anything that's either expensive, or potentially dangerous. And it sounds like your current project is a bit of both.
-Chris
My advice: Get someone that knows what they're doing to do it for you, and look over their shoulder while they do it. I definitely concur with the other posters here: You'll need to learn how to do it eventually if you're going to play with any kind of electronics as a hobby, but you definitely shouldn't lay your first beads on anything that's either expensive, or potentially dangerous. And it sounds like your current project is a bit of both.
-Chris
10-27-2011, 05:14 PM
#10
Tech Rookie
I have a little cheap 25w solder iron and it is really difficult to solder the big wires on an esc or motor as it just does not get hot enough. I ruined a couple of connectors before I could get them to solder and I have been soldering pc components since I was 20 years old (19 years). I would get at least a 40w and some extra connectors as well.
(eg hakko mach 1 85w vs 35w is actually a bit less hot! 320C vs 350C! on the other hand, the hakko 455 series @ 45w can hit a whopping 590C - this proves you have to be selective! wattage does not equal heat! ceramic cores being much more efficient can be quicker to heat up, hotter and maintain their heat better than a higher rated generic item. wattage merely refers to how much power it draws from the outlet, NOT its output. Consult the specs of the iron. if it's not listed you can be pretty sure its crap!)
see hakkousa dot com for the specs (i can't post links yet!)
A 540 motor cable would be no problem on my ceramic 25w if you tin the cable first.
The hakko dash 25w is a damn good iron for the money. (350C) ceramic core, japanese... around 30 bucks RRP, can be had cheaper.
blurb from tequipment dot com
Originally Posted by tequipment dot com
Powerful soldering irons that heat up to 1110ºF. The HAKKO 455 and 456 soldering irons incorporate a ceramic heater. They heat up to 1110ºF, proving the wattage of a soldering iron is NOT indicative of its thermal ability.
With a ceramic heater, wattage has nothing to do with the soldering irons heating capacity. View the Tech Notes for a thorough understanding of a ceramic heating element.
The wattage of a soldering iron is the measurement of the "Power Rating" of the soldering iron. Watts is NOT indicative of the soldering iron's temperature capacity nor its performance.
WATTS = Energy the soldering iron pulls from the electrical outlet
HEATING ELEMENT = The mechanism that converts the Energy into Heat
HEATING ELEMENT TECHNOLOGY = Two types: (1) wire-wound (2) ceramic
(1) Wire-wound heating element technology works like your kitchen toaster - electrical resistance heats up the wire. This type of heating element is very inefficient (wastes energy) and to add insult to injury, it REQUIRES A LOT OF ENERGY (example, 100W) to heat up the whole heating element, which in turn heats up the soldering iron tip. Wire-wound heating elements are less expensive to manufacture, thus the soldering iron's performance is equal to its price.
(2) Ceramic heating element technology sends electricity to just the area where the heat is needed (at the soldering iron tip.) This type of heating element is VERY EFFICIENT and REQUIRES LESS ENERGY (example, 63W), produces MORE HEAT, maintains its heat longer, and its thermal recovery (the tip's ability to come back up to soldering temperature when soldering heavy loads) is FASTER than a wire-wound heating element. Ceramic heating elements are more complex heating mechanisms that cost more to manufacture, thus the soldering iron's performance is equal to its price.
The Hakko 455 (45W) and 456 (63W) soldering irons are more efficient and heat up to more or equal to a 100W soldering iron that use a wire-wound heating element. Therefore, you should NOT equate a soldering iron's temperature and performance with its wattage without understanding the soldering iron's heating technology.
Users Beware: An inexpensive soldering iron is probably using the inferior (wire-wound) heating element technology.
With a ceramic heater, wattage has nothing to do with the soldering irons heating capacity. View the Tech Notes for a thorough understanding of a ceramic heating element.
The wattage of a soldering iron is the measurement of the "Power Rating" of the soldering iron. Watts is NOT indicative of the soldering iron's temperature capacity nor its performance.
WATTS = Energy the soldering iron pulls from the electrical outlet
HEATING ELEMENT = The mechanism that converts the Energy into Heat
HEATING ELEMENT TECHNOLOGY = Two types: (1) wire-wound (2) ceramic
(1) Wire-wound heating element technology works like your kitchen toaster - electrical resistance heats up the wire. This type of heating element is very inefficient (wastes energy) and to add insult to injury, it REQUIRES A LOT OF ENERGY (example, 100W) to heat up the whole heating element, which in turn heats up the soldering iron tip. Wire-wound heating elements are less expensive to manufacture, thus the soldering iron's performance is equal to its price.
(2) Ceramic heating element technology sends electricity to just the area where the heat is needed (at the soldering iron tip.) This type of heating element is VERY EFFICIENT and REQUIRES LESS ENERGY (example, 63W), produces MORE HEAT, maintains its heat longer, and its thermal recovery (the tip's ability to come back up to soldering temperature when soldering heavy loads) is FASTER than a wire-wound heating element. Ceramic heating elements are more complex heating mechanisms that cost more to manufacture, thus the soldering iron's performance is equal to its price.
The Hakko 455 (45W) and 456 (63W) soldering irons are more efficient and heat up to more or equal to a 100W soldering iron that use a wire-wound heating element. Therefore, you should NOT equate a soldering iron's temperature and performance with its wattage without understanding the soldering iron's heating technology.
Users Beware: An inexpensive soldering iron is probably using the inferior (wire-wound) heating element technology.
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