iStubz

iTrader: (2)

Forgive me if this makes little to no sense, I've been thinking wayyyy too much lately.

Alright so I have a slash 4x4 electronically stock, it's been acting weird lately. Besides that, I've been going to my local indoor clay track a lot and I can't seem to be able to "fine tune" my truck.
So I've been thinking, as my first hobby-grade RC it's gone through quite a beating, and I'm constantly having "issues" mainly just that I can't get it running exactly how I want it, or up to my standards.
So here's the issues: My wheels wobble A LOT. I can't seem to fix this issue no-matter what. I think there's parts slightly bent, but hey I'm not rich and I don't want to replace a bunch of stuff. Another problem, well I don't know if it's normal, but when I pull the break from high speeds it's almost like one of the front wheels (whichever way the car is going more towards) locks up and if I try to turn it instantly flips. Next, my ESC is starting to act-up, I ran about 5 minutes with a 2s 40c 5000mah lipo, then switched to another one and the car just stopped responding to throttle, I could turn but couldn't go. This has happened twice, I'm not sure what's causing it. Lastly, I randomly have loud grinding noises coming from the truck, so I take it apart, find no problems, put it back together and try it again. I'll do this 5-6 times before the grinding goes away. It almost seems like it's my pinion-spur gear, but they look fine...


And for the tuning-aspect. So I know it's mainly down to suspension and driving style, but it's like no-matter what I do my truck instantly does a nose-dive over any jump.

Also I've been thinking about just buying another SCT, and selling this one to a friend, but all of my friends have slash 4x4's. So if I got a 2wd SC10 or something we couldn't race in the same class. I bash more than I go to the track, but I don't bash hard like some of these guys, the craziest I get is launching off of those plastic skate ramps about 15 feet.
Or I could buy another slash 4x4 (preferably a PE) roller, and beef it up, except i hardly know anything about building RCs.


And to the final chapter of this novel;
I've been wanting a Rally RC for a while, I love driving on-road, and off-road. So I've been doing some research and I just can't figure out what to do in terms of buying a rally car, or converting one.
(Here's my current discussion thread on URC, apparently I can't post links yet but search my username on there and you will see it.)

Thanks for the advice in advance you guys.

JFuel11

iTrader: (152)

1. I think it is great to you want a new vehicle but supporting two can be alot to stay ontop of being so new. I will admit that keeping up with a 2WD vehicle is much easier than a 4wd as there are alot more parts and stuff going on. However I am going to suggest that you hold off on getting a second one until you feel you can handle the one you got and learn to repair and tune the one you have. Otherwise you will end up in the same boat with the second one...

2. Sounds like you have some either bent hubs, bent axles or drive shafts or some worn out bearings. I would suggest learning to break down and inspect these items and replace the needed parts. I know it is alot of work and some money but it is better to keep up with it before the truck is completely worn out.

3. You ESC issue sounds like it is thermoling on you or running two hot. The fact that it happens shortly into the second pack tells me that you may want to give it a break after the first packe and let things cool down. Does your speed control feel pretty warm after the first pack? When they go into thermal mode you will have no throttle but still have the ability to turn the front wheels.

4. The grinding noise I would post a question in the Offroad section under the "Slash 4x4" or something like that thread. You may find others that are chasing the same grinding issue. Otherwise break the truck down and inspect all parts for any odd wear or broken parts.

5. I am guessing the tuning issues may be the condition your truck is in. Please understand I can only make an assumption based on the information provided and my suggestion on your tuning issues is to make sure all drivetrain and bearings are running smooth and true. make sure your shocks move free and are full of oil and work correclty. Make sure the diffs opperate smooth and have correct oil/greese in them. All these items are key to being able to feel changes on the track. If they are not working correclty there is no point on tuning anything else.

Good luck and let us know if you need any addtional help.

iStubz

iTrader: (2)

Thanks A LOT.

1. I appreciate the advice and I will abide by it for a while, as I am getting my 1:1 car this month lol.

2. & 4. I have broken down the truck 100% and the only thing that appears to be slightly bent are the rods that hold on the front a-arms. Oddly enough the rear is what wobbles more...

3. My ESC wasn't nearly as warm as I've had it before. Like I said the first pack I ran for about 5 minutes not realizing it was dead until lipo-cutoff, then switched to the fresh pack that went down after 1 minute. I wasn't even driving hard and my ESC felt rather cool.

5. Like I said above I have torn down the truck 100% multiple times, everything is working properly, I just can't figure out how to tune the truck. Nothing I try makes a positive* difference.

JFuel11

iTrader: (152)

So the traxxas slash 4x4 is a great basher truck and can work ok on the track with some work. If you are expecting to keep up with the other brands of 4x4 SCT you have your work cut out for you. What is the truck doing on the track that you need to change?

iStubz

iTrader: (2)

Every jump no matter how I take it my truck does a nose-dive. On the clay track when I try to take the turn off of the straight going slower than other drivers I ussualy spin out or have to slow down a lot more. And finally when I give full power to the breaks from a high speed it's like my suspension completely compresses in the front almost like I'm doing a stoppy, but wheels on the ground.

Sstroudwku

iTrader: (5)

Just a note, when throttling through a jump you want to ease off the trigger as you break the crest. You're most likely nose diving do to inertia of the wheels spinning in a forward momentum causing the truck to rotate in a forward motion. Much the same as a helicopter having a rotor prop to counteract the rotational force. When jumping my slash I learned to let off just before the jump, punch at the bottom and ease off as it leaves the ground.

The lockup of one wheel during braking is simple. It's a matter of the function of a differential. In a slash 4x4 with a stock driveline you have a locked front to rear setup. when one wheel in the back spins one in the front must as well. Your differentials arent limited slip, they function as single track to help provide a level of control and to prevent breakage. So the wheel with the least grip spins the most. In turn it applies when braking, the wheel with the least grip will lock up, and then it will grab and spin you before you're able to react. I'd suggest upgrading to the center diff that will allow free range front to rear and only apply torque to the wheels that are in need.

Have you upgraded to big bore shocks, if not when was the last time you rebuilt your shocks, changed oil weight? Have you added weight to the rear? "tape on wheel weights from an auto parts store work best"

TWRC

iTrader: (14)

Back to the original post, if you want a rally car the Tamiya DF-03RA is great. It is derived from the DF-03 buggy. It has the body setup of a car but still keeps the chassis of a buggy. Adjustable suspension travel and I believe camber (but dont hold me to that)

iStubz

iTrader: (2)

I upgraded to the center diff and pro-line shocks.
My slash is now 90% of where I want it to be at.
Almost everything on it is upgraded, the only thing I can't seem to stop is the wheels wobbling.
Do the wheels bend easily?
(I just got new heavy duty halfshafts, so that's not the issue)

And should I upgrade to aluminum wheel hexes? I heard they crack wheels?

Odd

I've noticed that whenever I get wheel wobble, it's usually the result of unbalanced tires.

In my case, it's usually due to foam that has disintigrated, or I did a shoddy job with the tire glue.

My slash runs with a Mamba Max Pro ESC with a 2200kv Castle 4 pole motor, and I've been able to hold my own against the Losi SCT and the SC10 4x4.

The Slash is also an easy Rally Car conversion. All you need is a set of Rustle/Jato 2.8 0-offset wheels, some longer Duratrax body posts, and a body that will fit a Kyosho Inferno GT.

Evans Racing

About the wheel wobble, if its not worn bearings it will probably be the 12mm hex drive adapters behind the wheels. The wheels do not really sit in alignment on the axle as much as the are aligned by being sandwiched between the wheel nut and hex adapter. This is a fairly common problem i have seen. Replacing with OE plastic will help for a while, ideally the aluminum ones are your best bet. They fit the wheel and axle shaft much more precisely.

iStubz

iTrader: (2)

Nooooooo. Aluminum ones are BAD, my friend DESTROYED 3 wheels. Plastic hexes > wheels

Evans Racing

If he was destroying wheels he needs to put on fresh locknuts as the nylon lock part has worn out.

iStubz

iTrader: (2)

By destroyed I mean stripped out. I'd rather replace plastic hexes than wheels.

Timbulb

iTrader: (2)

Your friend has other problems. Aluminum hexes aren't gonna strip wheels any easier than plastic, as long as the wheelnuts are tight.