Battery Questions
#1
Battery Questions
Back when I raced 15 years back you could buy the matched batteries already put together. Is it the norm for folks to put them together themselves these days? I plan to run the Lipo's later but I can't use a Lipo in the stock class so I need to run the NiCds or Nimhs.
While we are on the topic which is considered better between the NiCds & Nimhs? And what exactly does the mAh indicate? Thanks in advance for any help you can give me. I have forgotten a lot since I last raced.
While we are on the topic which is considered better between the NiCds & Nimhs? And what exactly does the mAh indicate? Thanks in advance for any help you can give me. I have forgotten a lot since I last raced.
#2
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
You can still get packs that are assembled.. most folks tend to buy matched sets and build them.
You will be hard pressed to find NiCads anymore... NiMh passed them up first in capacity.. and now in voltage.
The Mah indicates the battery's capacity. The higher the number 3700mah 4200mah and now seeing 5000mah will give you longer runtimes. To compare NiMh to Lipos, the LiPo batteries actually have a third more runtime than the same Mah in NiMh (example: 3200mah LiPo= 4160mah in NiMh.. basically same as 4200mah NiMh).
Now most professionally matched NiMh cells will have higher peak and average voltage than a LiPo.. but a LiPo is lighter.. a 4200mah EP cell pack weighs in just over a pound. An Orion (Kokam) 3200 hardcased pack weighs in around 8oz! Tracks that let you use LiPo in stock sometimes make you add weight.. I think it's a bit silly because a good matched pack will out perform a LiPo... and the added weight makes the car's suspension handle better.. but oh well...
Hope this helps a bit!
Miss the days when you could charge a battery in 15min or less! Now it's 45min to an hour at 5amps! I remember using 1200SCRs for a 4min race and having to walk your car to the line.. put it down and hope you geared it right and not dump!
Have fun!
Jerome
You will be hard pressed to find NiCads anymore... NiMh passed them up first in capacity.. and now in voltage.
The Mah indicates the battery's capacity. The higher the number 3700mah 4200mah and now seeing 5000mah will give you longer runtimes. To compare NiMh to Lipos, the LiPo batteries actually have a third more runtime than the same Mah in NiMh (example: 3200mah LiPo= 4160mah in NiMh.. basically same as 4200mah NiMh).
Now most professionally matched NiMh cells will have higher peak and average voltage than a LiPo.. but a LiPo is lighter.. a 4200mah EP cell pack weighs in just over a pound. An Orion (Kokam) 3200 hardcased pack weighs in around 8oz! Tracks that let you use LiPo in stock sometimes make you add weight.. I think it's a bit silly because a good matched pack will out perform a LiPo... and the added weight makes the car's suspension handle better.. but oh well...
Hope this helps a bit!
Miss the days when you could charge a battery in 15min or less! Now it's 45min to an hour at 5amps! I remember using 1200SCRs for a 4min race and having to walk your car to the line.. put it down and hope you geared it right and not dump!
Have fun!
Jerome
#3
Thank you for the help! I will get some NiMh packs to start with and run some Lipos once I get my feet underneath me and I can start running the pro class. I plan on sticking with this for quite awhile and it never hurts to have extra batteries.
One other question on batteries. This might be a bit dumb but is it ok to buy a battery pack that is already in a sealed side by side stick like a Duratrax DTX4200, crack it open, remove the plugs, and put on solder leads for racing?
Also is it still normal to have 4 charged packs for raceday?
One other question on batteries. This might be a bit dumb but is it ok to buy a battery pack that is already in a sealed side by side stick like a Duratrax DTX4200, crack it open, remove the plugs, and put on solder leads for racing?
Also is it still normal to have 4 charged packs for raceday?
Last edited by Layin' Wood; 07-27-2008 at 01:00 PM.
#4
Tech Adept
iTrader: (6)
Following along here and I have another newbe question. Will I get more punch with more mah or is it simply longer run times. If I will get more punch, is there a point that the gain is minimal or is it pretty much linear. I think I read somewhere that higher mah batteries are more prone to "killing" a cell. Is this the case? For running in the novice class it seems odd to go out and invest in a 4800 mah battery if there is minimal gain and there is risk to kill it. Thoughts?
#5
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
LW - You can take a stick pack like the one you posted and rebuild it to a side-by-side configuration. There are a few benefits.. First it would allow you to use a discharge tray to equalize cells.. Secondly, the packs can cool better if not sealed in the thick plastic tube. Third, like you said, you can solder posts on the end for "direct solder" to the esc.. or use plugs.. Personally I feel that direct solder is just a waste and a pain.. After the first few times, you get more resistance from the old solder than you would from using a good plug.
RKnott - The Mah is just more runtime... if you are just racing stock class motors I would suggest getting anything from a 3300-4300mah NiMh cell packs. Personally I like GP brand cells.. Others like IB cells tend to have problems... EP brand cells have awesome power (peak and average volts).. but cells go bad in these packs pretty often too...
Have fun guys!
Jerome
RKnott - The Mah is just more runtime... if you are just racing stock class motors I would suggest getting anything from a 3300-4300mah NiMh cell packs. Personally I like GP brand cells.. Others like IB cells tend to have problems... EP brand cells have awesome power (peak and average volts).. but cells go bad in these packs pretty often too...
Have fun guys!
Jerome
#6
Thanks again for the help. I just ordered everything except the batteries. I have to wait for another payday for those. Is there a certain site you prefer to buy your batteries? I went to the GP website but didn't see any pricing info there.
Last edited by Layin' Wood; 07-28-2008 at 10:35 PM.
#7
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
I personally like Integy batteries.. www.integy.com
They have pretty good prices and decent quality cells.
Some of my buddies use Slingshot Batteries.. www.slingshotbatteries.com
They sell EP cells with some strong power. I have tested these packs over time and most seem to get much better after a few months of use! Price isn't too bad either.
Jerome
They have pretty good prices and decent quality cells.
Some of my buddies use Slingshot Batteries.. www.slingshotbatteries.com
They sell EP cells with some strong power. I have tested these packs over time and most seem to get much better after a few months of use! Price isn't too bad either.
Jerome