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Old 11-28-2005, 08:07 AM
  #31  
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It also gets really hot (to the point that the soldering melts).

Sorry for the double post, I went too quick to the submit button! (and I don't find the way to delete the post).
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Old 11-28-2005, 08:20 AM
  #32  
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well, the reason that it "jumps" is because of the motor can's magnetic field. it is supposed to do that. cogging is normal for brushed motors.
the resistance is because the brushes are sprung against, and directly contact and cause friction with the commutator. that friction will cause heat.
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Old 11-28-2005, 10:09 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by milen
It also gets really hot (to the point that the soldering melts).

Sorry for the double post, I went too quick to the submit button! (and I don't find the way to delete the post).
If your solder is melting there is something wrong imo. You may need to reduce your gearing to reduce heat. Take the motor apart and clean it thoroughly, check if the brushes are blued from excessive heat (probably) and replace. Make sure you oil your bearings.

Also, if your pinion/spur mesh is to tight it will cause high heat which could be the problem as well.

Also, check for binding cvd's/axles as well as the rear wheel bearings as any undue stress will add to the work the motor is doing.
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Old 11-28-2005, 05:30 PM
  #34  
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thanks, I'm gonna get my stuff during next week, i'm gonna change esc, motor (i just asked to know what's up), put in a one-way diff. in the same time, i'm gonna check all the bearings (any advice on how to clean them without hobbyproducts, since I leave in costa rica and it's only general purpose products here). About the gear-mesh it was perfect, did the test with the piece of paper.
the gearing of the motor was ALL stock from the box (tc3 rtr), so the gearing SHOULD be right from factory (or not?).
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Old 11-29-2005, 01:20 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by milen
the gearing of the motor was ALL stock from the box (tc3 rtr), so the gearing SHOULD be right from factory (or not?).
maybe for the stock motor that came with the car. I had read somewhere that when you change to a mod motor, you usually have to change the gearing to suit that particular motor. when I got my first motor from the LHS for my car to complete the kit, I was going to start with a 17 turn like the manual recomendended. but after deciding to go with a 15 turn instead, the guy told me that I should drop a tooth or two on the pinion, (which was a 31 tooth.)
because I just wanted to hurry up and run my new car, I decided to worry about the gearing another time. sure enough, it was blistering fast, then blistering hot, then eventually, a nice black burnt color! so, the gearing depends on the motor.
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