dfiantii

iTrader: (18)

I have a question maybe you guys can help me out. I am rebuilding my TT01 and here is Cali we have an nice asphalt track and I am trying to figure out what the best tires for the condition are. The hobby shop owner at the track says everyone uses Team Sorex 36R tires but I was wondering what the consensus is from you guys who obviously run your cars more than I do. I have been thinking about getting these: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MEWA:IT&ih=003. Right now my setups will be Pro Stock Trinity motor or a Tamiya TZ don't know if that will help. I have most of the other hopups still debating on getting the ball diff or just keeping what I have. Any help you guys can give would be greatly appreciated. Will post new pics once I get her up and running again. Another thing have you guys all switched your screw kits to hex drive titanium screws or just kept what was in the package and used thread lock on them?

edseb

Tires are one of the most important tunig aids, but unfortunately one of the most complicated. Sorex compounds are very god, but inserts and durometer you choose (22R, 28R, 32R, 36R) have big impacts as well. Basically they are heat rated so even the same tire will work one day and not the next. Best thing is to ask drivers where you decide to race at and gauge according to the weather, traction, wear, etc. HPI X-patterns you listed are not the best, just an average tire and usually chosen for spec classes. A slick is always going to be better than a tread unless its raining within the same durometer and compound.

FX Racing

I use Take Off 27 tires and they are very good i would recommend them but they are suited to warm weather tracks and also they are our standard control car tire for onroad in title events in australia

ThunderRobo

iTrader: (2)

the new JACO Rubberz are nice too

Joel Lagace

iTrader: (4)

HPI does not make track worthy tires...

Go with you LHS recomendation, chances are he is selling to racers going to his track. Your in Cali its hot there 36r is not an unreasonable starting point...

Sorex are great as are Takeoff and jaco.... Pretty much stick with those 2 brands but dont mix the brands....

Grab a 36r to start and then try someting abit softer if they are working well.

Wilabidd

Hello all could any one give me a tip on which tyre's would be good on a felt track. The club i'm joining place a sheet of Green felt down to protect the gym floor, will the standard tyres that come with the cars be good enough for grip. Any help is great

squad car

Since they give comment about the tires
I will add suggestion about the hops-up.
The Ball Diff. requires more maintenance and expensive. The good side, it will give you the comfort of adjusting the tightness of a car for better handling. If you can get the proper setup (tightness of the ball diff) based on your driving style, it will give you the edge over the gear diff.
Titanium screws are more durable and lighter, that’s the reason why other used it. If you can lessen the weight of your car, that’s another advantage that you can get.
Good tires will not give you any advantage, if you can’t get the right “insert” or vice versa. To lessen the heat of tires add holes to the rims.
IMHO

edseb

Woah, info may be taken a bit skewed. Good tires are the MOST important tuning you can do for your car, and correct the insert has a lot to do with that. The tires are the only contact with the ground and affect the handling; the other tuning you will do will only affect how the rubber is laid down. Masami Hirosaka (considered to be the best ever RC Driver) only works on tires and leaves his car to his mechanics. Without the proper tires you will never be as fast as you could no matter how good your set up is. Of course inserts affect the tires. Unlike full size cars, there is no air pressure from inflation, but pressure is obtained by hardness and thickness of insert. Yes the hole drilled in the rim or tire will have an affect on air flow/breath, but as long as there is one there you are good. You will almost never run the tire without this ventilation hole. The insert and tire needs this hole to take advantage of the pressure of the insert and tire.

On a Rear diff, proper tension is a must and not really a tuning option on tightness (for ball diffs). A loose diff will slip and lose power, robbing your motor and batteries of power, overheating electronics, diff out, etc. A loose diff will also burn up and slip worse in no time if not adjusted tight enough. On the track a slipping diff makes a screaching sound as it slides on the rings and balls- bad. A too tight diff will grab inconsistently and lose its effectiveness, turning in to a spool and losing inside traction. Adjust in other parts of the car to gain tuning. Check with any seasoned 1/12th pan car or sedan racer to find the proper tension. Hold one of the rear wheels and spur gear and rotate the other rear wheel, it should be tight to rotate but still move slightly. It is a common misconception that a rear diff tension is tuneable for car handling by tension. A properly built diff should be very smooth with no notches and grit feeling. The thrust bearing is also very important for smooth operation. You may be able to do very minute adjusting to diff to affect handling, but the trade offs are usually not worth it.

Titanium screws are in between aluminum and steel in weight. Aluminum is lighter but more brittle and steel is heavier. Titanium is usually chosen for a good compromise between strength, stiffness and weight, but not the lightest. That's why car bulkheads, etc. are aluminum, and titanium are a good choice for turnbuckles, etc. since they can reduce overall weight of car while still retaining a good amount of strength but unfortunately the most expensive. For pure strength, steel is strongest and the most heavy.

On gear vs. ball diffs. Ball diffs reduce a lot of weight since your are eliminating the bevel gears and grease used to adjust tension, and the weight reduction is also beneficial in less rotating weight, so they are perfect for electric touring car, buggy, etc. but with nitro, a ball diff often has a hard time dealing with the power and will fall apart, so gear diffs are often chosen and with these 1/8th scale nitro beasts, weight isn't as critical as a properly working drivetrain. Sure, ball diffs can be more maintenance, but in electric the weight savings and lower center of gravity is worth the trade off, so in most cases a gear diff isn't even an option and isn't even manufactured by the company. In a Tamiya car to reduce costs and maintenance, a gear diff is often spec'd, not for performance gain, but for other reasons, so if you want an electric Tamiya to work better, often a ball diff is a good upgrade.

Hot Rod RAC3R8

hey,
Tires depend on the track surface and weather they are running a dry or wet track. If they are running wet, proline bowtie or crimefighter are about the best, they also make them for most scale cars. Proline Holeshot or panther switches are probably the best for dry tracks. Also they come in a very of sizes for different scales. If it is any other type of surface I would go to your local hobby shop and ask them which is best for that track of just for bashing around.

edseb

Uh, the question for tires was for Onroad rubber tires.