It's been about 15 years
#1
It's been about 15 years
I haven't touched a R/C car for about 15 years. When I did race, my dad purchased everything and did all the tweaking on the cars. Now, I'm wanting to get into again. After doing some research on many different vehicles, trucks mainly, I found and purchased a HPI RS4 MT.
I have a few other buddies who are getting into it as well. They just recently grabbed a pair of Duratrax Evader's off ebay. I picked the HPI to be different mainly.
It's a rolling chassis. Meaning I need a crash course in how much the market has changed in the last 15 years. While doing my research on vehicles, I checked out the Rustler VXL, so I do know about brushless systems and how crazy fast they are. However, for this vehicle I wanna keep my brushes for a bit longer. Mainly due to price... and to maintain durability while I bash it.
I'll purchase used parts, whatever, it doesn't really matter. Like I said, I'm just gonna bash it for a little while neways. I have an old Trinity Speedworks 427 I'll prolly throw in for a bit even. Does anyone know the specs on that motor?
I don't quite understand the relationship between the components. Meaning, what does a low turn engine gain me? What should I look for? What causes an engine to get too hot? What's a good low budget ESC for bashing? Being waterproof would definitely be a bonus... :-)
Thanks guys!
I have a few other buddies who are getting into it as well. They just recently grabbed a pair of Duratrax Evader's off ebay. I picked the HPI to be different mainly.
It's a rolling chassis. Meaning I need a crash course in how much the market has changed in the last 15 years. While doing my research on vehicles, I checked out the Rustler VXL, so I do know about brushless systems and how crazy fast they are. However, for this vehicle I wanna keep my brushes for a bit longer. Mainly due to price... and to maintain durability while I bash it.
I'll purchase used parts, whatever, it doesn't really matter. Like I said, I'm just gonna bash it for a little while neways. I have an old Trinity Speedworks 427 I'll prolly throw in for a bit even. Does anyone know the specs on that motor?
I don't quite understand the relationship between the components. Meaning, what does a low turn engine gain me? What should I look for? What causes an engine to get too hot? What's a good low budget ESC for bashing? Being waterproof would definitely be a bonus... :-)
Thanks guys!
#2
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ok, welcome back to the wonderful high cost world of RC!
to start with, lower turns = higher speed but less torque. i would suggest a 27 or 19 turn motor to start, they are the most popular and cheapest. overgearing is what causes a motor to overheat, but you can easily add a fan to cool it. ESC's i don't know, as i run nitro. but have fun!
joe
to start with, lower turns = higher speed but less torque. i would suggest a 27 or 19 turn motor to start, they are the most popular and cheapest. overgearing is what causes a motor to overheat, but you can easily add a fan to cool it. ESC's i don't know, as i run nitro. but have fun!
joe
#3
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oh batteries. new people sometimes forget that new battery technology has meaned cell capacity has tripled in capacity in the last 20-25 years or so. people say anything over 3300mah is good, and i would suggest GP cells as they are supposed to be reliable. IB cells are ok, but with a higher failiure rate.
#4
not sure if the make a "waterproof" esc. personally i use a novak GTS in my car and the stock traxxas ones in my trucks. make sure you get a speed control that can handle the specs on your motor. i had a cheap airtronics one, but it overheated, because it could not handle my 19T Tbang motor so i had to upgrade to the GTS. also get a servo that has some decent torque, the ones on the torquey side, opposed to speedy ones, are better for a truck and it will/should improve your handling. the receiver, well get somethin decent preferably with dual rate adjustment, actually a must have. don't go to cheap on stuff, you will not regret it later. also a good charger and good batteries make all the difference. i prefer 4200's, either GP, IB or EP, although IB do tend to fail. EP's are supposed to be quite durable. if you plan on spending a couple hundred on a charger get a much more.
#5
Thanks guys!
What does GP, IB, & EP stand for?
Will higher mah ratings give me longer run times? The ones I am getting with the car are only 2000mah & 1700mah.
26 or 19 turns... got it. This Speedworks 427 is marked as a 4 wheel drive motor... so I might be ok using it.
What does GP, IB, & EP stand for?
Will higher mah ratings give me longer run times? The ones I am getting with the car are only 2000mah & 1700mah.
26 or 19 turns... got it. This Speedworks 427 is marked as a 4 wheel drive motor... so I might be ok using it.
#7
yeah tell me about it!! technology has come so far i feel like i should start at radio shack all over again!! esp with the electrics, nitro engoines are still just engine so i'm some what good there just everything around it is so new. definatelt coma along way since the jrxt, 2's and the nitro assaults!!
#8
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not sure if the make a "waterproof" esc. personally i use a novak GTS in my car and the stock traxxas ones in my trucks. make sure you get a speed control that can handle the specs on your motor. i had a cheap airtronics one, but it overheated, because it could not handle my 19T Tbang motor so i had to upgrade to the GTS. also get a servo that has some decent torque, the ones on the torquey side, opposed to speedy ones, are better for a truck and it will/should improve your handling. the receiver, well get somethin decent preferably with dual rate adjustment, actually a must have. don't go to cheap on stuff, you will not regret it later. also a good charger and good batteries make all the difference. i prefer 4200's, either GP, IB or EP, although IB do tend to fail. EP's are supposed to be quite durable. if you plan on spending a couple hundred on a charger get a much more.
#10
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yes higher mah will give higher runtimes. those batteries you are getting are so old they are probably totally worn out.
#13
For th RS4MT, i would say the BEST thing you can get if you are going to race it, is the Heat Sink motor Plate. I had an MT and it makes all the difference drawing heat from the motor.
I miss my MT, kinda want to get another one.
MOmo
I miss my MT, kinda want to get another one.
MOmo
#14
I don't really plan to race it, but I do plan to push it as hard as I can.
Heat sink motor plate... ok, what else?
For a cheap, durable setup, what would you recommend for a ESC and gearing setup? It currently has the stock 96T gear with a 18 tooth pinion gear. I dunno what kinda motor it has, but it's solid green with no writing whatsoever. I have a few 1700mah 6 cell saddle packs... and one 2000mah... I'm not sure if they are good yet.
I'm trying to keep it cheap until I can go brushless...
Heat sink motor plate... ok, what else?
For a cheap, durable setup, what would you recommend for a ESC and gearing setup? It currently has the stock 96T gear with a 18 tooth pinion gear. I dunno what kinda motor it has, but it's solid green with no writing whatsoever. I have a few 1700mah 6 cell saddle packs... and one 2000mah... I'm not sure if they are good yet.
I'm trying to keep it cheap until I can go brushless...
#15
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you'd need to test the packs, they may work they may not, depending on the age of them. i'd suggest you buy some more modern packs, although if you don't have a NI-MH charger you will need to invest. a NI-MH charger can charge NI-CADs but not vice versa.