Former R/C racer looking to return
11-22-2006, 07:39 PM
#1
Former R/C racer looking to return
Hi all. I just located this site and there seems to be a wealth of info here. It's gonna take time to look through it all. I'm looking to get back into the sport but alot has changed since I last raced, (+/- 15 years ago). I no longer have any RC related items so I'm starting from scratch.
The local track runs Touring cars (which weren't around in my day) on a carpet road track. My question(s) is: What do I need to get back in to it and be competitive? I need to know what items are a must have and what is a "nice to have". The other thing I need to take into consideration is money, or the lack there of. Where can I skimp and where not too. One last thing, I know I'm getting long winded, I know I'll need car, radio, batteries, electronics, ect... could someone tell me how each has changed, if possible.
Thanks in advance to any and all that respond.
Steve
The local track runs Touring cars (which weren't around in my day) on a carpet road track. My question(s) is: What do I need to get back in to it and be competitive? I need to know what items are a must have and what is a "nice to have". The other thing I need to take into consideration is money, or the lack there of. Where can I skimp and where not too. One last thing, I know I'm getting long winded, I know I'll need car, radio, batteries, electronics, ect... could someone tell me how each has changed, if possible.
Thanks in advance to any and all that respond.
Steve
11-22-2006, 10:02 PM
#2
I am a low budget racer. As for a car, depending on how much you want to spend. If you are looking for a real cheap good car, go with a TC 3. If you are looking for something better, check out the x-ray t2r which I think sells for around $200. I would go with a three wire esc, I run novak cyclones and the have been very good to me. You can find them pretty cheap on there. When shopping for a radio, I would get spektrum because it does not use any cyistals and nothing will interfer with it. You can get a radio and two recivers for like $250. As for as batteries I would go with 4200s to compeitive, due to my budget I only run 3300s but I can tell the difference. Motors now a days are very rebuild able. I hope some of this info will help.
12-16-2006, 05:33 PM
#4
Tech Apprentice
Hmm, sounds like we are in the same boat, I am also getting back into it affter 15 years, and my problem is bigger than yours, As I am starting from scratch but not only do I have to outfit myself, but I also have to outfit my 3 boys $$$.
What I wanted too pass on too you is that I have bought probabably about 95 percent of all my stuff off of the for sale site on this site and it has saved me some big bucks, and everything was recieved in the condition it was described as. The one thing I did learn is that things go fast, I would actually scan the site every hour or so....
The only insite I can pass on too you about how these cars are is that I have recently purchased the following cars the past month or so.
XRay007, XRayT2R, AE Factory TC4, and an AE TC4RTR, played with them just a bit too make sure I had them all working properly, I really notice an improvement with the XRAYs with the belt drive vs the AE with the shafts, they just seem to ride smoother.
If I had too pick one car on a budget I would probably go with the XRAYT2R
anyway welcome back, we both have a lot of catching up too do
Ken
What I wanted too pass on too you is that I have bought probabably about 95 percent of all my stuff off of the for sale site on this site and it has saved me some big bucks, and everything was recieved in the condition it was described as. The one thing I did learn is that things go fast, I would actually scan the site every hour or so....
The only insite I can pass on too you about how these cars are is that I have recently purchased the following cars the past month or so.
XRay007, XRayT2R, AE Factory TC4, and an AE TC4RTR, played with them just a bit too make sure I had them all working properly, I really notice an improvement with the XRAYs with the belt drive vs the AE with the shafts, they just seem to ride smoother.
If I had too pick one car on a budget I would probably go with the XRAYT2R
anyway welcome back, we both have a lot of catching up too do
Ken
12-16-2006, 07:38 PM
#5
Hey Ken,
thanks for your input. I couldn't imagine having to outfit 3 more on top of yourself. Although I'll be nice when mine are old enough to do it with me also. I have noticed there are pretty good deals on the forum. I just gotta keep my eyes peeled for when they come along.
thanks for your input. I couldn't imagine having to outfit 3 more on top of yourself. Although I'll be nice when mine are old enough to do it with me also. I have noticed there are pretty good deals on the forum. I just gotta keep my eyes peeled for when they come along.
12-17-2006, 01:16 PM
#6
Tech Rookie
lol i like to go balls out, i love my traxxas jato. Thing is fast as hell
12-17-2006, 11:55 PM
#7
Welcome to the club 
I love to race but dont have a lot of scratch to spend either.
My suggestion is to find out what most people are running. Ask people questions and see where they buy used stuff or where you can get it. I always try to support the local hobby shop if i can but if you have to save $200 then so be it.
With the carpet racing, hopefully they have a "rubber" tire class. Foam wheels cost the same as rubber but wear out much faster, need to be trued, sauced etc...The rubber tires last about 10 time longer. Our track has recently started running a rubber/brushless class/lipo class.
See if people are cool with running LiPo batteries. Our track is cool with it in some classes (casual classes) and not in others as some of the local drivers are pro's. Little more money up front but save way more on the back end. You dont need a discharger, equalizing tray etc...you just charge and go. Recharge and go.
Get most everything used except for batteries. Seems the used batteries sold always are junk and is something better just bought new. Unless you know someone who has taken care of them ...its just something to avoid. Get new.
Would recommend a used XRay. Without going into it too much just seems the best cars for the money. Usually can find a lot of used ones for a good price. I agree with Ken, best car for the money is the Xray T2R hands down.But better suited for asphalt than carpet.
JR radios are good radios and seem to be found for reasonable cost. Make sure you get a radio with epa, dual rate, etc. You dont have to have the $400 Airtronics MXeleventybillion to run competitively. I got lucky and got 2 JR3'xri s FM with Novak receivers for $50 each. You can get a brand new one for $139 with a good servo.
Best charger for the money (IMO) Duratrax ICE charger. Only bad thing is you have to have a power supply that can cost as much as the charger. But its a good charger that is Lipo capable.
If you are lucky and have cool people there, fortunately I was blessed with a track where the locals are awesome and have guys that go way out of their way to help new guys like me, see if they will help you out with set up and using some of their gear when y ou need it. I literally went a few months without and set-up tools. Found a guy who bought new ones and bought his for $20.
Im the same as you , i returned from racing in 1989 about a year ago. A lot has changed...i would say the biggest change is the battery maintenance and motor maintenance it can take to keep competitive. If you have hardcore racing guys at the track it may cost a lot of money to keep up with them. Obviously better equipment will help you go faster , just like 15 + years ago.
I love to race but dont have a lot of scratch to spend either.My suggestion is to find out what most people are running. Ask people questions and see where they buy used stuff or where you can get it. I always try to support the local hobby shop if i can but if you have to save $200 then so be it.
With the carpet racing, hopefully they have a "rubber" tire class. Foam wheels cost the same as rubber but wear out much faster, need to be trued, sauced etc...The rubber tires last about 10 time longer. Our track has recently started running a rubber/brushless class/lipo class.
See if people are cool with running LiPo batteries. Our track is cool with it in some classes (casual classes) and not in others as some of the local drivers are pro's. Little more money up front but save way more on the back end. You dont need a discharger, equalizing tray etc...you just charge and go. Recharge and go.
Get most everything used except for batteries. Seems the used batteries sold always are junk and is something better just bought new. Unless you know someone who has taken care of them ...its just something to avoid. Get new.
Would recommend a used XRay. Without going into it too much just seems the best cars for the money. Usually can find a lot of used ones for a good price. I agree with Ken, best car for the money is the Xray T2R hands down.But better suited for asphalt than carpet.
JR radios are good radios and seem to be found for reasonable cost. Make sure you get a radio with epa, dual rate, etc. You dont have to have the $400 Airtronics MXeleventybillion to run competitively. I got lucky and got 2 JR3'xri s FM with Novak receivers for $50 each. You can get a brand new one for $139 with a good servo.
Best charger for the money (IMO) Duratrax ICE charger. Only bad thing is you have to have a power supply that can cost as much as the charger. But its a good charger that is Lipo capable.
If you are lucky and have cool people there, fortunately I was blessed with a track where the locals are awesome and have guys that go way out of their way to help new guys like me, see if they will help you out with set up and using some of their gear when y ou need it. I literally went a few months without and set-up tools. Found a guy who bought new ones and bought his for $20.
Im the same as you , i returned from racing in 1989 about a year ago. A lot has changed...i would say the biggest change is the battery maintenance and motor maintenance it can take to keep competitive. If you have hardcore racing guys at the track it may cost a lot of money to keep up with them. Obviously better equipment will help you go faster , just like 15 + years ago.
Last edited by wcalaker; 12-18-2006 at 01:36 AM.
12-18-2006, 05:16 AM
#8
If you are going to be racing 27t stock make sure you have good cells (low ir and high voltage) ,ESC, (Electronic speed control) with a good range of tuning, charger, motor and a light,reliable car to be competitive. Even a one way bearing can be a big help on some tracks so dont overlook buying one once your driving is consistant.
Everyone in this motor class is fighting for anything to make the car quick on top end speed and punch, moreso than a faster motor class? Maybe....
Dont forget some good tyres too- you cant get near the fastest car if your own car isnt gripping well. Make sure you get a good discharger to look after the cells we use these days,as nimh are usually more sensitive to being fully discharged than what the older nicads used to be like (they used to like being discharged,unlike nimh) and they loose their capacity and punch.
If your local club doesnt get much interference on race day it might be possible to buy a cheaper handset and reciever, but dont count on it.
A good servo is a good investment too, I use a futaba s9550- its mid range price and its fast enough for my needs, although there are faster (and more expensive) out there.
The thing with this hobby is if you buy one thing but not another to support it your equipment (and racing) can suffer.
hope that helps
Everyone in this motor class is fighting for anything to make the car quick on top end speed and punch, moreso than a faster motor class? Maybe....
Dont forget some good tyres too- you cant get near the fastest car if your own car isnt gripping well. Make sure you get a good discharger to look after the cells we use these days,as nimh are usually more sensitive to being fully discharged than what the older nicads used to be like (they used to like being discharged,unlike nimh) and they loose their capacity and punch.
If your local club doesnt get much interference on race day it might be possible to buy a cheaper handset and reciever, but dont count on it.
A good servo is a good investment too, I use a futaba s9550- its mid range price and its fast enough for my needs, although there are faster (and more expensive) out there.
The thing with this hobby is if you buy one thing but not another to support it your equipment (and racing) can suffer.
hope that helps
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