Pintobean11

iTrader: (17)

I just bought this boat the other day:

http://www.proboatmodels.com/Product...ProdId=PRB4250

I'm new to the LiPo game so what am I looking for when purchasing LiPo's? If you own this boat, what are you running and using?

Pintobean11

iTrader: (17)

So, it appears i did not buy this boat. There was an online error and the website canclled the order. So, now I'm looking at what to get next. I'm debating between obviously the Impulse 31 v2 and reg, Aquacraft Revolt, supervee and shockwave.

Give me some opinions on all.

Pintobean11

iTrader: (17)

The Kyosho twinstorm seems to strike a fancy too.

Pintobean11

iTrader: (17)

42 views and no responses at all. Is this forum that dead?

marvinbeaverdip

iTrader: (36)

pretty much. I had the same luck years ago when I asked a question. It's pretty much just active in car stuff. Wish I had an answer for you, I like boats but don't have the time or space to run them. I have an old Villian to putz around with when we're at the lake.
To answer your question about Lipos though, you're going to be looking at voltage, capacity (4000mah is a nice start), but equally important is the C rating. I think a minimum for a boat should be 30C, the higher the C rating the more amperage it can deliver. For cars, at least, 30 is a pretty good minimum, unless they're the mini scale ones which are fine with 20-25C. I've had good luck with the cheaper chinese Lipos like Turnigy and Blue Lipos. Unless you're racing cars and need a legal battery, you don't really need the high end batts.
With the higher capacity batteries, so comes the size. Unlike nicad or nimh, as the capacity goes up (not the voltage), so does the size. Just make sure whatever you buy can fit into the battery tray in your boat.

roadrashracing2

proboats have really gone up in price with these new models, I would stay away from the plastic hull models, aquacraft might be good ones to look at, and their prices seem to be less. I just picked up nib impulse 31 for $220 revolt might be a good choice.

Pintobean11

iTrader: (17)

Thanks for the responses.

Where did you get the impulse for 220?

I ended up buying the brand new impulse as well but I paid 299. In addition, I got 2 Lipos and the marine grease so it was about 450 shipped.

roadrashracing2

An eBay seller was clearing them out.

Pintobean11

iTrader: (17)

Does anyone else have this boat? I am very new to r/c boating and had crap ones when I was younger. I'm thinking that I want to start our with NI-MH battery and eventually upgrade to a LIPO once I figure out about LIPO's and figure out the boat. What NI-MH would be good to go with for this set up?

Road- I noticed your posts on offshoreelectronics. How are you digging your boat?

roadrashracing2

I would go with lipo right away, just get some thing with a decent c rating. A 5000 mah battery will get you about 4-5 min of run time. Thats all you really want to run at once. You will need the program card if you don't use lipo. On the esc change the motor connectors to at least 4mm connectors, and most people change the deans to 5.5 mm bullets. I had an impulse in the past and liked it, this one has not been in the water yet.

Pintobean11

iTrader: (17)

Finally got my impulse in the water today. 15 mins, in it died (luckily choose to shore). Got it back to the car and it appears my brand new lipo puffed. Going to call dynamite tomorrow but this seems weird to me.

roadrashracing2

How long where you running your batteries, I hope it was not 15 min! You should only be running a set of batteries 4-5 max/ per set of batteries.

Pintobean11

iTrader: (17)

Yeah, it was for about 10 or so mins. Why should I not run then longer than that?

roadrashracing2

Boats pull high amps and drain batteries quick, 3-4 mins is normal run time when running, 5 mins is pushing it.