Want to mod my EP Apro boat
#1
Want to mod my EP Apro boat
Hi, I want to mod my Apro boat to go faster I hv 4s lipo, 100amp esc but motor I m deciding 60mm or 70mm medusa? Can I use 1800kv 60mm or 2000kv 70mm better?
I m racing 1/8 conversion off road so d longer d motor d more heat it can take but I guess car n boat is different as boat will full throttle most of the time.
So what u guys recommend? N wat brand of motor u guys use? Thx
I m racing 1/8 conversion off road so d longer d motor d more heat it can take but I guess car n boat is different as boat will full throttle most of the time.
So what u guys recommend? N wat brand of motor u guys use? Thx
#2
Hi, I want to mod my Apro boat to go faster I hv 4s lipo, 100amp esc but motor I m deciding 60mm or 70mm medusa? Can I use 1800kv 60mm or 2000kv 70mm better?
I m racing 1/8 conversion off road so d longer d motor d more heat it can take but I guess car n boat is different as boat will full throttle most of the time.
So what u guys recommend? N wat brand of motor u guys use? Thx
I m racing 1/8 conversion off road so d longer d motor d more heat it can take but I guess car n boat is different as boat will full throttle most of the time.
So what u guys recommend? N wat brand of motor u guys use? Thx
#4
What type of hull is the Apro? Mono, cat, hydro? The lower the number of KV or rpm the more pitch you can use on the prop. Pitch is the distance of travel in mm for each rpm the prop rotates. If you use a high revving motor with a prop which is high pitched the prop will cavitate and the boat will not move.
this is the pix of the boat i want to mod
#5
Yes that's a mono. Do you need a shim to fill the gap between the 4mm or 1/8 inch shaft and the hole of a 3/16 bore of a prop? Solution is simpel: go to you LHS and buy a copper tube with the outside diameter of 3/16. The inner diameter is 4mm or 1/8 inch. Cut off (with a dremel) a piece that fits into the length of the prop and you have your shim. Very simple and cheap to do.
#6
Yes that's a mono. Do you need a shim to fill the gap between the 4mm or 1/8 inch shaft and the hole of a 3/16 bore of a prop? Solution is simpel: go to you LHS and buy a copper tube with the outside diameter of 3/16. The inner diameter is 4mm or 1/8 inch. Cut off (with a dremel) a piece that fits into the length of the prop and you have your shim. Very simple and cheap to do.
1st
can i mount the heatsink on the esc like this? i need to heatstrink it?
2nd
can i mount the esc above the motor as i prefer the CG to be mid or abit forward to the hull.
3rd
can i mount the batt sideways as if parallel the boat will roll sideway
thx alot
#7
2nd: I would not recommend it because of the magnetic field. I would place it behind the motor.
3rd: If you have one battery I would place the esc on side of the hull and the receiver on the other sied. The battery i would place midship or forward.If you put the batt on one of the side in the hull the hull will not be in balance and turn either left or right.
If you use twin batts in series: place the electronics in the middle of the hull and each batt on the sides of the hull.
#8
1st: No, you cannot mount it that way because you cannot slide the heatshrink over it.
2nd: I would not recommend it because of the magnetic field. I would place it behind the motor.
3rd: If you have one battery I would place the esc on side of the hull and the receiver on the other sied. The battery i would place midship or forward.If you put the batt on one of the side in the hull the hull will not be in balance and turn either left or right.
If you use twin batts in series: place the electronics in the middle of the hull and each batt on the sides of the hull.
2nd: I would not recommend it because of the magnetic field. I would place it behind the motor.
3rd: If you have one battery I would place the esc on side of the hull and the receiver on the other sied. The battery i would place midship or forward.If you put the batt on one of the side in the hull the hull will not be in balance and turn either left or right.
If you use twin batts in series: place the electronics in the middle of the hull and each batt on the sides of the hull.
how do i cool my esc all the tubes has been use up? can i use a adapter? is there one u guys use?
usually do u guys set the esc soft , normal or very soft start for boat?
n whats Governor mode?
what kind of timing u guys set for medusa motor? low, middel or high?
do u have a pix how do i put the thrust bearing for the motor?
thx alot
#9
Tech Rookie
Please explain about not mounting the esc on top of the motor because of the magnetic field. We do it all the time in our boats and have never experienced any kind of problem.
1st: No, you cannot mount it that way because you cannot slide the heatshrink over it.
2nd: I would not recommend it because of the magnetic field. I would place it behind the motor.
3rd: If you have one battery I would place the esc on side of the hull and the receiver on the other sied. The battery i would place midship or forward.If you put the batt on one of the side in the hull the hull will not be in balance and turn either left or right.
If you use twin batts in series: place the electronics in the middle of the hull and each batt on the sides of the hull.
2nd: I would not recommend it because of the magnetic field. I would place it behind the motor.
3rd: If you have one battery I would place the esc on side of the hull and the receiver on the other sied. The battery i would place midship or forward.If you put the batt on one of the side in the hull the hull will not be in balance and turn either left or right.
If you use twin batts in series: place the electronics in the middle of the hull and each batt on the sides of the hull.
#10
Tech Rookie
Hook up the cooling in series. Go from the rudder (pickup) to the esc, out of the esc to the motor, out of the motor to the outside of the boat! You can ignore the outrunner motor cooling plate since you have a water jacket on the motor.
I run r/c boats all the time. I have that same boat. They are designed to mount the battery on the left side. This helps counteract the torque produced by the propeller. The esc and receiver are normally mounted on the right side. We set the esc for fast, or hard, start. Ignore governor mode, that is only for helicopters.
As for the thrust bearing, it is designed to run againt the front of the motor with the drive collet up against it so the "pushing" load is put on the bearing rather than the motor. Sorry, don't have a pic for you at the moment.
As for timing, if it's a 2 pole motor set it for LOW timing. If it's a 4 or 6 pole, set it for MEDIUM timing.
What is that object in the front of your motor?
I run r/c boats all the time. I have that same boat. They are designed to mount the battery on the left side. This helps counteract the torque produced by the propeller. The esc and receiver are normally mounted on the right side. We set the esc for fast, or hard, start. Ignore governor mode, that is only for helicopters.
As for the thrust bearing, it is designed to run againt the front of the motor with the drive collet up against it so the "pushing" load is put on the bearing rather than the motor. Sorry, don't have a pic for you at the moment.
As for timing, if it's a 2 pole motor set it for LOW timing. If it's a 4 or 6 pole, set it for MEDIUM timing.
What is that object in the front of your motor?
can i place this way? will the rear of the boat be too heavy?
how do i cool my esc all the tubes has been use up? can i use a adapter? is there one u guys use?
usually do u guys set the esc soft , normal or very soft start for boat?
n whats Governor mode?
what kind of timing u guys set for medusa motor? low, middel or high?
do u have a pix how do i put the thrust bearing for the motor?
thx alot
how do i cool my esc all the tubes has been use up? can i use a adapter? is there one u guys use?
usually do u guys set the esc soft , normal or very soft start for boat?
n whats Governor mode?
what kind of timing u guys set for medusa motor? low, middel or high?
do u have a pix how do i put the thrust bearing for the motor?
thx alot
#11
Guest
Want to mod my EP Apro boat
My reply wasn't good enough so it seems.
Last edited by DLM; 08-02-2009 at 03:59 PM.
#12
Hook up the cooling in series. Go from the rudder (pickup) to the esc, out of the esc to the motor, out of the motor to the outside of the boat! You can ignore the outrunner motor cooling plate since you have a water jacket on the motor.
I run r/c boats all the time. I have that same boat. They are designed to mount the battery on the left side. This helps counteract the torque produced by the propeller. The esc and receiver are normally mounted on the right side. We set the esc for fast, or hard, start. Ignore governor mode, that is only for helicopters.
As for the thrust bearing, it is designed to run againt the front of the motor with the drive collet up against it so the "pushing" load is put on the bearing rather than the motor. Sorry, don't have a pic for you at the moment.
As for timing, if it's a 2 pole motor set it for LOW timing. If it's a 4 or 6 pole, set it for MEDIUM timing.
What is that object in the front of your motor?
I run r/c boats all the time. I have that same boat. They are designed to mount the battery on the left side. This helps counteract the torque produced by the propeller. The esc and receiver are normally mounted on the right side. We set the esc for fast, or hard, start. Ignore governor mode, that is only for helicopters.
As for the thrust bearing, it is designed to run againt the front of the motor with the drive collet up against it so the "pushing" load is put on the bearing rather than the motor. Sorry, don't have a pic for you at the moment.
As for timing, if it's a 2 pole motor set it for LOW timing. If it's a 4 or 6 pole, set it for MEDIUM timing.
What is that object in the front of your motor?
hi, thx but i need the front plate as my motor need to be push back as the shaft is too long.
the thing in front of my motor? u meant the sliver thing? its a spacer i need becoz my coupler is jamming the shaft so i need the motor to go back.
btw i post a pix the esc is hook up with tubes for cooling but its softer. can it still work? will the water pressure straighten the tube or i need to change it?
#13
Go to Offshoreelectric site where i explained how to make your 700 go like a race boat should. Now it is posted just about same title as you have here. Also you can look into RC Groups on same subject matter in which MR. Pompbled of Netherlands did his 700. Now it is a very simple mod and requires hardly any money involvement, maybe none if you have already have the stuff. Many a European has done what i typed without using flex cable. Motor which i use in my boat is a Turnigy 28-45-3600 with a Supersimple 60a with a Carbon fiber prop which is a 1.4-36mm or 1.4-37.5 or 1.4-34.5 and found at site typed in first line. I use 2 lipos in parallel and size is 7.4-25c-2200 which gives me 4400 mah at 30% center of gravity. Flex cable is fine and this way is 5 times easier than revamping the whole transom area and still not gettingit right.
i am almost on my own thats y this project has been delay for 1 yr.
i m trying to use all stock just replace the esc, batt n motor as i already have all these.
i m planning to do a flood chamber but i m not sure how to.