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Old 06-30-2009, 05:20 PM   #16
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Wow lots of good info here! Thanks guys. I think fir starters I just want to get a metal prop that is the same or close to the stock one. I should probably work on things like my driving skills first. (I ran head on into a concrete pier piling at half throttle) haha. Now I get to learn how to fix fiberglass
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Old 06-30-2009, 11:38 PM   #17
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That is also simple: sand the outside with some sandpaper. After that take same fibercloth (just a little bigger the damage) and laminate this with a good quality expoxy on the INSIDE of the hull. Let het dry and fill the rest on the OUTSIDE with fiber filler. Once cured sand it with very fine sandpaper until has a smooth finish. Repaint it your hull is repaired. Good luck.
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Old 07-06-2009, 12:37 PM   #18
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So I've noticed that my boat turns much better right than left and I can't figure out why. Weight is evenly distributed, the throw on the servo is equal and it looks like the rudder turns evenly in both directions. Is it because the rudder is mounted offset to the right? Is there a way to correct it?
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Old 07-06-2009, 01:33 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dont slow down View Post
So I've noticed that my boat turns much better right than left and I can't figure out why. Weight is evenly distributed, the throw on the servo is equal and it looks like the rudder turns evenly in both directions. Is it because the rudder is mounted offset to the right? Is there a way to correct it?
All r/c hulls with a single prop turn better to the right. 'Cause of "prop-walk". The prop turns counter clockwise, on a surface drive set-up the prop trys to "walk" the transome to the left. if your hull has a turn fin(s) a single fin on a racing hull will be on the RH side of the transome for RH turning only. Some mono hulls will have two turn fins ( LH & RH). This set-up will let the hull make acceptable LH turns.
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Old 07-06-2009, 03:18 PM   #20
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Ok so it's the same principle as torque twist on my monster truck? I know that if I'm up on a plane then it turns left fairly well but if I'm pushing water it barely turns left at all. I guess I will just have to learn how to drive with it that way and get used to it.
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Old 07-08-2009, 07:37 AM   #21
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Ok I'm looking at props again and the stock prop is 1.6"x2.5" and I couldn't find the pitch. Most of the other props I'm looking at are all in mm.
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Old 07-08-2009, 10:47 AM   #22
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Ok I'm looking at props again and the stock prop is 1.6"x2.5" and I couldn't find the pitch. Most of the other props I'm looking at are all in mm.
It's there, you just don't realize you're looking at the pitch number.

diameter: 1.6" = 40mm
pitch: 2.5" = 63.5mm

The closest matches by Octura will be either a #1640 (straight pitch) or X640 (progressive pitch) these are both beryllium/copper alloy and fit a 3/16" hub shaft. I'm going to guess that you are runing an electric motor vs a nitro engine, 'cause a 1640 doesn't find it's way on to many nitro hulls in stock form.

Here's a link to check out. http://www.fastelectrics.com/octuraprops.htm
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Old 07-30-2009, 09:52 AM   #23
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Nothing.

Last edited by DLM; 08-11-2009 at 05:14 AM.
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Old 08-01-2009, 03:21 PM   #24
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Here's the formula:

X440 is 1.4 x 40. You multiply 40mm x 1.4 to get the pitch, 56mm. So you can see that if you go to a X640 prop, it will be the same diameter, 40mm but will have more pitch...1.6 x 40 = 64mm. Now don't go asking me how to figure out Prather and ABC props. Haha! At least the Octura's are easy. The same goes for the 4 digit numbered props like 1640. It is 1.6 x 40 also but has a different blade design. For example, the M series props are the same as the X series prop except they do not have the tongue on them. Some props are lifting props, etc.

[quote=chunk t;6040504]It's there, you just don't realize you're looking at the pitch number.

diameter: 1.6" = 40mm
pitch: 2.5" = 63.5mm

The closest matches by Octura will be either a #1640 (straight pitch) or X640 (progressive pitch) these are both beryllium/copper alloy and fit a 3/16" hub shaft. I'm going to guess that you are runing an electric motor vs a nitro engine, 'cause a 1640 doesn't find it's way on to many nitro hulls in stock form.
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Old 08-04-2009, 11:04 AM   #25
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Ok I'm having a problem with my boat. I pulled out the motor and shaft to clean them and now when I put them back in the shaft just spins inside the collet on the motor shaft, it won't hold the shaft. I tighten it all the way down and it still spins. The shaft doesn't look like its damaged and it goes into the collet far enough. Should I buy a new one?
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