Weird Radio Behavior
09-17-2015, 05:08 PM
#31
As I was reading through this thread, I was going to suggest that you check your connections to the motor because it sounded like you might have had a poor solder joint.
Since you are using bullet connectors between the speed control and motor, you obviously have checked those. If you continue to have intermittent issues, make sure there are no loose connections from the wire to the actual bullet connectors.
Because you are using the vehicle to make jumps, a bad solder joint would eventually come loose. Also a poor electrical connection will cause the wire/connectors to heat up due to the resistance at that point in the circuit.
Since you are using bullet connectors between the speed control and motor, you obviously have checked those. If you continue to have intermittent issues, make sure there are no loose connections from the wire to the actual bullet connectors.
Because you are using the vehicle to make jumps, a bad solder joint would eventually come loose. Also a poor electrical connection will cause the wire/connectors to heat up due to the resistance at that point in the circuit.
09-18-2015, 08:11 AM
#32
Have to ask you couple of things. Can you post photo of wiring(motor & ESC)? And what do use for battery charger. 20min time of running, Plenty of speed runs, or a lot of bashing.
09-18-2015, 09:35 AM
#33
Sure sounds like just a classic loose connector issue. Problem occurred, then by taking them apart and resetting the connection was restored. At least for a little while. Replace with new good quality connectors or better yet eliminate the connectors and wire direct.
09-18-2015, 09:36 AM
#34
The wires aren't bent at severe angles even though you can't really tell from this pic.
09-18-2015, 09:40 AM
#35
Thanks. What connectors would you recommend... I've never had issues with this type before.
09-18-2015, 12:32 PM
#36
Bullet connector shouldn't have too much problems.
AC6 Charger, good charger. I use the BC6 charger. Basically they're the same charger. After 20min run, I'd like to know what voltage your battery reading, when it start to cog. Take reading not with a DVM, a reading on your charger. Set charger to discharge, connect battery lead & Balancing, Start discharge the press the INC button. It should read the individual cell reading.
Thanks JB!!
AC6 Charger, good charger. I use the BC6 charger. Basically they're the same charger. After 20min run, I'd like to know what voltage your battery reading, when it start to cog. Take reading not with a DVM, a reading on your charger. Set charger to discharge, connect battery lead & Balancing, Start discharge the press the INC button. It should read the individual cell reading.
Thanks JB!!
09-18-2015, 04:50 PM
#37
In either case watch for strain damage to the wiring just before the connections to whatever. Typically connectors have and need that section shrink wrapped just like your picture. The wrap can hide this common wiring failure, and this could also be your issue. Try flexing the wire a bit right as it connects to the connectors, see if any seem flimsier than the others.
Most direct wiring leaves the end exposed which helps with detection. Of course the exposed ends can be a risk for shorting from unexpected contact, but most don't have issues. Just something to be aware of.
09-19-2015, 05:38 PM
#38
Bullet connector shouldn't have too much problems.
AC6 Charger, good charger. I use the BC6 charger. Basically they're the same charger. After 20min run, I'd like to know what voltage your battery reading, when it start to cog. Take reading not with a DVM, a reading on your charger. Set charger to discharge, connect battery lead & Balancing, Start discharge the press the INC button. It should read the individual cell reading.
Thanks JB!!
AC6 Charger, good charger. I use the BC6 charger. Basically they're the same charger. After 20min run, I'd like to know what voltage your battery reading, when it start to cog. Take reading not with a DVM, a reading on your charger. Set charger to discharge, connect battery lead & Balancing, Start discharge the press the INC button. It should read the individual cell reading.
Thanks JB!!
Nonetheless here' are your pictures - after it was charged...and in discharge mode just after it happened.
Just charged:
Just after it happened in discharge mode:
Also a video of what it does when it happens.
https://youtu.be/-M0Gr4qOyBI
09-19-2015, 05:40 PM
#39
I recommend direct wiring for the motor. Much more reliable. If connectors are needed then they need to be checked and maintained regularly.
In either case watch for strain damage to the wiring just before the connections to whatever. Typically connectors have and need that section shrink wrapped just like your picture. The wrap can hide this common wiring failure, and this could also be your issue. Try flexing the wire a bit right as it connects to the connectors, see if any seem flimsier than the others.
Most direct wiring leaves the end exposed which helps with detection. Of course the exposed ends can be a risk for shorting from unexpected contact, but most don't have issues. Just something to be aware of.
In either case watch for strain damage to the wiring just before the connections to whatever. Typically connectors have and need that section shrink wrapped just like your picture. The wrap can hide this common wiring failure, and this could also be your issue. Try flexing the wire a bit right as it connects to the connectors, see if any seem flimsier than the others.
Most direct wiring leaves the end exposed which helps with detection. Of course the exposed ends can be a risk for shorting from unexpected contact, but most don't have issues. Just something to be aware of.
09-19-2015, 07:52 PM
#40
Probably 4mm bullet connectors.
Since ESC & motor are new, where did you purchase it. You can exchange the motor for new. Or if you're good solderer you can change all three wires. Your LHS should have what you need.
Put the car on a brick and give it throttle, wiggle wires one by one, you'll know what wire to change.
Since ESC & motor are new, where did you purchase it. You can exchange the motor for new. Or if you're good solderer you can change all three wires. Your LHS should have what you need.
Put the car on a brick and give it throttle, wiggle wires one by one, you'll know what wire to change.
09-20-2015, 04:15 AM
#41
I just saw that the esc has a thermal overload protection...not that is it? I mean the motor is warm enough to the touch after a lot of speed runs you don't want to keep holding it but not skin melting hot.
09-20-2015, 08:16 AM
#42
If thermal it normal after it cool down after 15min or so. I would think its thermal if the state of an LED Changes, maybe to red. Heat of ESC and motor may seem the motor working to hard. Heat on motor critical, especially brushless. Your pinion maybe too small, at 16t. 16t would of been good with brushed motor. maybe a 22t pinion is better for you. Speed you'll gain ,I wouldn't go 28t pinion it may cog more.
10-10-2015, 12:19 PM
#43
Sorry it has taken me so long to report back...I just had the chance to do some work on this. I replaced the motor to esc bullets that came with the combo pack with some 4mm Tekin bullets. That seems to have fixed the issue - I just ran it hard on the road and front yard in the rain and had no issues at all.
In looking at the old bullets - they are the swivel kind...not sure why you'd make them like that. And there was some corrosion on them but I'm guessing its the swivel that was causing it.
Thanks for all the help! So as of now - I'm assuming it's fixed.
In looking at the old bullets - they are the swivel kind...not sure why you'd make them like that. And there was some corrosion on them but I'm guessing its the swivel that was causing it.
Thanks for all the help! So as of now - I'm assuming it's fixed.
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
