The FastFred

Nexxus, so based on your graph where will you set your timing?

DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

I am not sure where Nex would set them but based on the numbers I would set the Hobbywing at 47-48 and the EA at 45-46, but I am a little more conservative in timing these days than some.

MiCk B

iTrader: (2)

Hi,

The BMC-01 is the old unit, I had one. It doesn't do timing (really handy to have.) or noise level (nice to have.)

The new unit is the one to get.

MiCk B. :-)

The FastFred

So why are you going conservative on timing?

vivo quevas

iTrader: (19)

probably to keep the magic smoke inside! LOL

jlfx car audio

iTrader: (37)

I worked with a motor and several rotors this weekend ... Tho I only had one D4 1s 17.5 stator to work with and 5 sensor boards and 5 rotors I was able to find the strongest rotor with using this unit (i borrowed someone's rotor checker after I did all my testing to find the trend )
Same stator , same sensor , same timing , same sensor gap (1mm)
The rpm and amps (along with can timing changed with each rotor to maintain same measured degree of timing ) the lowest amp draw ,lowest rpm was the strongest rotor... And we're all in order according to my testing ...
From a 1440 rotor to a 1350 rotor amps changed 3.4-13a
Rpm changed 22k-28k
All while maintaining 54deg of meausured timing ... Just thought I would share
O and also adjusted 2 sensor boards to give 54\54\54 readings which was nice as well

DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

I found that for most motors the sweet spot where you have the best low-end torque and still respectable top-end is around 45-50 degrees of timing, and less timing helps the motor stay cool even when pulling a slightly taller gear. I found that when I was running loads of timing my car could fall on its face late in the run, adjusting to run a few degrees less timing helps that as well.

I wrote a long summary of how I use this motor checker back at the bottom of page 15, it covers timing and free-spin amp draw and how I found it affects low-end and heat.

metalnut

iTrader: (36)

So... how should I interpret a timing reading where the average is 45* but Ph.A is 42, B is 45 and C is 47? Is my sensor board having issues?

I'm testing my well used BOSS 25.5 and I'm seeing these numbers:

1718 12887 1.1A @ 37
1759 13199 1.2A @ 38
1965 14740 2.3A @ 43
2081 15403 2.9A @ 44
2154 15941 3.2A @ 45

The amps seem a bit high once you cross the 40* mark or so. Is trying to hit that 16K RPM worth it at over 3.2A?

Radneed4speed

iTrader: (18)

lol thats funny!

Radneed4speed

iTrader: (18)

Thats funny!!

vivo quevas

iTrader: (19)

I bought a motor recently 21.5 from that was used it was fast motor when I checked it, it was pulling 15.6 amps at full power. I thought that was a rediculas so i took some of the timing out and the motor sucked not nearly as fast. Even with that high of amp draw the motor kept the magic smoke inside it. Gear it for temp hope for the best. Why is it some motor have some performance with low amp draw and some are amp whores to get performance?

DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

I don't think a 21.5 motor can draw 15 amps in free spin, unless you had 70 degrees of timing or something.

If it works and its fast and the motor will live, there is no wrong answer, but that 15 amps means your motor is heating itself as fast as a 100 watt light bulb.

Drew Manzella

iTrader: (35)

I read your post on page 15. Could you elaborate more on "adjusting" the sensor board? Some say to shim it as well. All the same thing or are they 2 different aspects of board/sensor alignment?

I have ordered a motor checker and have been trying to find a good write-up for brushless motor tuning but so far all I have turned up is playing with timing and gearing - which isn't tuning in my opinion, that is setup.

I have several motors to play with and would like to learn more about the different things we can do to tune on one of these analyzers (and I am using your long post as a good foundation for that).

SLOWINSLOWOUT

iTrader: (20)

The only 'tuning' you can do is with the rotor, beyond that, it is 'blue printing' the motor. You want to get proper sensor symmetry (all sensors reading the same), proper air gap, bearing alignment, rotor alignment, etc.

patorz31

My Team Powers Actinium 21.5 is running 13.6 amps at 53 Degrees timing. It turns more RPM then I have ever seen out of a 21.5. It absolutely kills my D4 1s 21.5 which draws 6.8 amps at the same timing. Funny thing is when run in a car the Team powers runs cooler it never gets over 160.