The FastFred

Wish-bone! thanks for the answer. So I won''t let the smoke out of the speedO and can save on the solder. Time too!

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

No Smoke.

Once I have my speed control soldered in, I bounce between the G-Force motor checker, a Competition Electronics dyno, and a Eagle MD2 dyno, just changing the sensor cable, and sometimes the power source. I bounce between those three quite a bit to find best all around performance. The G-force keeps the timing changes in check, the MD2 gives me a better idea of acceleration and the CE confirms loaded simulations via timing changes for peak RPM versus Torque.

But no smoke shows.

dr_hfuhuhurr

iTrader: (94)

Ok, I just got my motor checker (cool unit)

I see that my Sensor board checks out at:

Ph.A: 25* Ph.B: 23* Ph.C: 29*

I know they should be close to one another. What do I do now? Do you adjust these? Or simply buy sensor boards till you get a good one?

The FastFred

No SMOKE!����

DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

With most motors you can flex the board in the direction you want. From your numbers, I would flex the C phase in the direction of travel, the B phase against the direction of travel, and the A phase stationary relative to the direction of travel. So push the whole sensor board in the direction of the A phase hall effect sensor.

dr_hfuhuhurr

iTrader: (94)

That's what I thought to do...how do I determine which sensor is which?

DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

When I started messing with these motors I had to look up the rules for the pins, as ROAR mandates a specific hall effect connector so motors and ESC's are compatible across all manufacturers, and they are as such:

Pin #1- ground potential
Pin #2- phase C
Pin #3- phase B
Pin #4- phase A
Pin #5- temp control, 10 k Thermistor referenced to ground potential
Pin #6- + 5.0 volts =/- 10%

For clarification pin #1 is on the left hand side of the connector with the wires exiting the top of the connector and the plastic tangs that hold the contacts in the housing are facing forward. You should be able to trace the wires and tines in the board from the connection pins to the sensors. I can't link a picture, but that's how I figured it out. I mark each phase with a sharpie so I don't have to take up precious brain cells with just remembering....

dr_hfuhuhurr

iTrader: (94)

Perfect! Thanks so much. I look forward to getting home tonight and geeking out over motors like I haven't since the brushed days.

I never thought at the time I would have missed polishing bushings.

Skiddins

If you hold the sensor board in your hand with the sensors themselves (inside of the endbell) facing you;
Phase A is the bottom right
Phase B is the top sensor
Phase C is the bottom left

Obviously you need to hold the board with the top as if the power terminals of the stator were at the top.

The FastFred

how do you twist this??

dr_hfuhuhurr

iTrader: (94)

Thanks ^^^

DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

Just to clarify before somebody does something expensive, you move the board on the tines, not the sensors on the board....

even the ones with the white plastic brace you can loosen the screws and move the whole board around, or just flex it to one side with a little force.

dr_hfuhuhurr

iTrader: (94)

So the wires marked here is what you want to move.

I think I get it, you want to move the upper board with relation to the lower board. In the example you gave me I would move the entire upper board toward the A sensor with relation to the lower board therefore moving the sensors.

DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

However you can move the sensors relative to the rotor, it will change the timing. Only the rotor counts, which is why flexing the whole sensor arrangement to one side is a valid tuning option.

dr_hfuhuhurr

iTrader: (94)

Thanks...am I also correct to assume that the "TOP" of the sensor board is marked there with the arrow?