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Old 11-04-2014, 04:57 AM   #76
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http://www.scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/top_speed.html
in this web you can check the information for the motor!
Thanks but I have an even simpler way to calculate the speed of my car (without a speed gun) and you don't need all those measurements (e.g., do you know the KV rating of your motor with the amount of timing you are using? - I do but I have a Motorlyser). I run my car flat out in the street in front of my house, download the RPM from the ESC, divide by the FDR and I have the wheel speed in RPM. I can convert that to MPH, KPM, or any other unit of measure I want.
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Old 11-04-2014, 02:00 PM   #77
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TORG what is the magnet 3/3 reading? I see it in the 114 Users Guide, which also shows a reading of 3/3, but the instructions don't talk to it. Is 3/3 good, bad, or indifferent?
"Magnet condition: 3/3" is the menu title, menu page 3 out of 3"

I wrote it down, was no need to
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Old 11-04-2014, 04:52 PM   #78
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"Magnet condition: 3/3" is the menu title, menu page 3 out of 3"

I wrote it down, was no need to
DAAAAH! - I should have thought of that! Thanks
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Old 11-04-2014, 07:23 PM   #79
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Just got mine but the C channel current always seems to read higher than the rest no matter what motor I test. Is there a way to check the channel calibration?
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Old 11-11-2014, 11:59 PM   #80
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Just got mine but the C channel current always seems to read higher than the rest no matter what motor I test. Is there a way to check the channel calibration?
To answer your question, no there is no channel calibration feature.

On how many motors did you see this?

After you wrote it I checked a my imgur posts on previous pages and it does seem like it, but then there are a few motors that don't.

Depending on manufacturer and/or person winding maybe?
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Old 11-12-2014, 12:18 AM   #81
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found another use for the motolyser tonight. Quality control for rotor shimming. I had gone one shim too far and as a result +1 amp draw

received three sensor boards for my kill shots for further testing. one good two bad... one had phase C at +0.1 while phase B read -7


since I had mostly 21.5 motors I got a couple 17.5 stators as well, a Torque version and a high RPM version. Both with near identical numbers on the certified stickers.



Really want that store result over USB feature, then can combine that with a USB label maker of some sort.
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Old 11-17-2014, 09:57 AM   #82
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Did some teardowns of a R1Wurks and a Killshot.

There are discrepancies in the readout that has me confused (as usual ).

http://imgur.com/a/AvO2P

I was talking to Mr R1 over the weekend he was speculating that there was something mechanical happening that the motolyser can't see. Then he picked up a car with his motor in it, punched the throttle and said "sounds boosted right?". Then we picked up my car and did the same and it sounded "linear". Both ESCs being blinky.

Disclaimer: I am not an expert in any of this stuff, just trying to understand what is going on. If anyone spots errors in my test please point them out and if you have any links to things I need to read before I can "get it" please share.
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Old 11-18-2014, 04:59 PM   #83
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Originally Posted by torg View Post
Did some teardowns of a R1Wurks and a Killshot.

There are discrepancies in the readout that has me confused (as usual ).

http://imgur.com/a/AvO2P

I was talking to Mr R1 over the weekend he was speculating that there was something mechanical happening that the motolyser can't see. Then he picked up a car with his motor in it, punched the throttle and said "sounds boosted right?". Then we picked up my car and did the same and it sounded "linear". Both ESCs being blinky.

Disclaimer: I am not an expert in any of this stuff, just trying to understand what is going on. If anyone spots errors in my test please point them out and if you have any links to things I need to read before I can "get it" please share.
I don't know what is going on either nor am I an engineer; however, your mortorliser and mine are giving the exact same timing readings on the Kill shot and R1 motors (both of my are 21.5s) at the zero timing on the endbell.
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Old 11-18-2014, 06:53 PM   #84
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Originally Posted by torg View Post
Did some teardowns of a R1Wurks and a Killshot.

There are discrepancies in the readout that has me confused (as usual ).

I was talking to Mr R1 over the weekend he was speculating that there was something mechanical happening that the motolyser can't see. Then he picked up a car with his motor in it, punched the throttle and said "sounds boosted right?". Then we picked up my car and did the same and it sounded "linear". Both ESCs being blinky.

Disclaimer: I am not an expert in any of this stuff, just trying to understand what is going on. If anyone spots errors in my test please point them out and if you have any links to things I need to read before I can "get it" please share.
I have never used a motolyser but I assume the unit relies on the back EMF to determine the rotor position and determine the sensor timing advance.

Perhaps the motolyser is incorrectly reading (false triggering due to noise) the back EMF with the R1?
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Old 12-17-2014, 11:14 AM   #85
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Has anyone used the GForce analyser and the Motolyser side by side on the same motors ? I have been told that the GForce unit is not accurate and can be off as far as 12*. I'm trying to decide which one to buy and don't want to over spend for info I can't use. Is the Motolyser realy worth it ? I aready have a motor and chassis dyno . Looking for something a little more portable to haul with to the track .Thanks for all the good info so far.---Bob
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Old 12-17-2014, 12:49 PM   #86
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Has anyone used the GForce analyser and the Motolyser side by side on the same motors ? I have been told that the GForce unit is not accurate and can be off as far as 12*. I'm trying to decide which one to buy and don't want to over spend for info I can't use. Is the Motolyser realy worth it ? I aready have a motor and chassis dyno . Looking for something a little more portable to haul with to the track .Thanks for all the good info so far.---Bob
Funny I asked the same question on the GForce thread a few days ago. So far no response.
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Old 12-17-2014, 12:53 PM   #87
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My G-force motor analyzer is not off by 12 degrees. I tested the same motor with a Trinity Motolyser and all of the phases were within a degree of each other in reading. As far as I can tell, the only disadvantage of the GForce unit is you don't get a amp draw reading for each phase.
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Old 12-17-2014, 07:27 PM   #88
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I have used both, and while I feel the Trinity has more functions, its not as value for money as the gforce ones

and yes, I have tested the same motor on both and got the same results from both units

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Old 12-18-2014, 09:36 AM   #89
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My G-force motor analyzer is not off by 12 degrees. I tested the same motor with a Trinity Motolyser and all of the phases were within a degree of each other in reading. As far as I can tell, the only disadvantage of the GForce unit is you don't get a amp draw reading for each phase.
Thanks do they have plans to upgrade the G-Force motor tester with new soft/firmware releases to add new features similar to what the Motorlyser folks do (but hopefully better)?

PS did you by any chance happen to test an R1 motor, which seen to be driving TORG nuts?
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Old 12-18-2014, 10:09 AM   #90
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Thanks do they have plans to upgrade the G-Force motor tester with new soft/firmware releases to add new features similar to what the Motorlyser folks do (but hopefully better)?

PS did you by any chance happen to test an R1 motor, which seen to be driving TORG nuts?
I severely doubt that a software update will allow the GForce unit to give you the amp draw of each phase, I think that would require a hardware change and up the price as the digital ammeter is probably a good chunk of the cost. I think the ability to measure the individual phases will remain the advantage of the Motolyser, and if people are hard-core (like oval guys, who traded in their sanity for an extra tenth a long time ago! ) it may be worth it.

As for the motor I tested, it was a Team Powers motor, not an R1. I have also tested my Tekins, Trinity Duos, LRP x12 and X20, and others and all required a little "massaging" and centering of the sensor board to get it closer to perfect.
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