Ck_32

iTrader: (2)

Alright so I just bought my first brand new fresh lipo and it was delivered about an hour ago. I know lipos are pretty touchy and do come 80% charged from the store out of the box. I have a charger on order from HobbyKing international and looks like it's still at least a week or 2 out from being delivered.


My question is, is it safe to plug in and bind my controller and even maybe get a couple minutes of run time before charging it? Or will that drain the battery life and not good for it?

I know these are touchy, I googled and found a ton of questions about Lipos and charging but found nothing about running them from the factory/store pre self charge.


So, plug in and bind before charge? Safe or not?


Get a few laps on fresh non self charged battery? Safe or not?

ThePanda

iTrader: (68)

I would balance it and charge it before you do anything else. In theory it should be ok, But it would be good just to check cell voltage and balance levels first, just in case they are off. Which if they are to much could lead to bad things.

Ck_32

iTrader: (2)

Yea that's kind of what I figured but had to ask because from the looks of it no one has asked before... At least from what google brought up.


But dam it's going to be hard as hell to not plug his thing in for 2 weeks till my charger gets here. Last thing I need is that stupid charger lol

ThePanda

iTrader: (68)

pluggin in to bind receivers and such should be ok, as it puts so little load on the cells, but running the car is probably a bad idea.

Dave H

They usually come new at closer to 50% charged. Also known as storage charge.

Ck_32

iTrader: (2)

Ok so I took it to my local track and they helped me get it bound. Took another battery. But now if I turn the wheel 3 times back and forth it shuts off. I'm running a SR201 with a RX8 ESC and a 4600kv Tekin motor.


One shop guy said it's the cheap reciever and RTR controller. The Avox servo I have is pulling way too much amperage for them. But one shop says it's the ESC cutting off and the ESC can't support the Avox.


What is it the cheap reciever cutting out or the RX8 ESC....? I just want this stupid thing to run.

Oh and we used a full powered Gen ACE battery when we bound it.

TOM MAR

iTrader: (3)

Which esc? (RX8?) that should be ok

A Savox servo? Which one?

Ck_32

iTrader: (2)

Savox 1268 with a Gen1 RX8

Now this thing won't connect... My RX8 keeps flashing (No radio signal) so I tried to rebind it and again I can't get this thing to pick up my tx to the rx.


RX rapid blinks, turn on radio, stops blinking (trying to bind), blinks twice, then goes into rapid blinking again. While my RX8 still flashes all lights (No signal)

TOM MAR

iTrader: (3)

The 1268 is a high amp draw servo. Check the specs on this link, & the (*note )

http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...o-High-Voltage

Hopefully the receiver is not toast, that does not sound good.

Yosh70

iTrader: (17)

Try binding without the servo connected to the receiver. That should narrow it down for you.

An external BEC sounds like its in order if you cant adjust the voltage in the ESC.

Ck_32

iTrader: (2)

So can I use one of those $5 can type glitch busters on top of a BEC?

I know essentially they do the same thing but one is more powerful than the little plug in. But can you double them up or should I just invest in a full BEC?

TOM MAR

iTrader: (3)

Like Yosh70 said, Try binding without the servo connected to the receiver.

If the rec. will bind then the servo is pulling to many amps for the rec 's circuit board to handle. I would go with an external bec.

Yosh70

iTrader: (17)

I'm not sure if you understand completely.....a BEC is a circuit thats built into the ESC to power your servos and receiver. Most newer ESC's have adjustability in the software that you can boost the BEC voltage. An adjustable EXTERNAL BEC is a different component that you wire in and eliminate the stock BEC built into the ESC. Its usually software programmable and will draw power from your lipo to safely power your electronics.

A glitch buster (basically a capacitor) plugs into your aux port on your receiver and stores energy to boost the voltage when your servo is trying to draw more power that your BEC can provide. Its cheaper than an external BEC and more or less plug and play.

Hope that helps.

Ck_32

iTrader: (2)

Alright so I finally got it all figured out.


The first issue was my controller had dead batteries, reason why it wouldn't bind. Second I finally took my car to the shop where they confirmed it was a bad glitch issue and recommended a BSE because it's pulling way to much for a glitch buster. Well I went home and found a old 25v 2500uh capacitor and hooked it up to some leads. Plugged it in and whala! Fixed it! I can't even get this to glitch out anymore.

Glad I tried it than running the BEC cause the shop kids said a buster wouldn't fix it since it was cutting out so bad and fast. But I think the beefed capacitor was large enough internally knocked it

So lesson is always try a cheap glitch busted first kids! Lol