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Old 05-20-2014, 06:55 PM   #1
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Default Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Soldering-Station

I am looking to pick this up. I tried to look at all of the tips and see what is what. I know it has a 1.6mm and a 3.2mm tip. I think the s3 is a 5.2mm tip. I probably dont need all of those tips, but I am thinking I wan the 3.2mm and the 5.2mm tips. I have a 85watt hakko that really struggles to desolder esc's that are prewired with 12awg lead free solder. I assume I need a beefer tip to carry more heat and maybe an iron that gets hotter. Anyone use this iron for 10-12awg wiring with lead free solder? what tips are you using?

This is the package I am looking at
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hakko-FX888D...item3f30b0eb8c
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Old 05-20-2014, 07:02 PM   #2
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Get rid of the lead free solder. Problem solved.
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Old 05-20-2014, 07:09 PM   #3
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Get rid of the lead free solder. Problem solved.
yeah, I used 60/40 but I had a hell of an issue trying to desolder some wires from my orion pro that were factory soldered. I put way more heat into the esc than I wanted to. I am told with a bigger tip and a hotter iron that crap will come right off. I normally use TQ 13awg and 60/40 solder and that is cake. But every time I need to remove wires from and orion, viper, hobbywing etc, its freaking hell
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Old 05-20-2014, 07:33 PM   #4
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I have the analog version, which is basically the same and I have no problems desoldering/soldering 12ga wire. I always set the temp to 650 and it just melts super easily.
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Old 05-20-2014, 08:01 PM   #5
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which tip are you using?
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Old 05-20-2014, 08:09 PM   #6
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The mid sized tip. I guess the 3.2mm? I bought it used and it already had this tip on it. There was a bigger one that I never felt the need to use.
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Old 05-20-2014, 08:56 PM   #7
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You have solder on the tip before trying to unsolder wires? Most of the factory solder joints I have messed with have required much more heat. It comes down to the type of solder used and the quality of solder. I prefer 63/37 as it has a melting point of 183c. 60/40 has a broader range. So some 60/40 may melt at one temp and another 60/40 may melt at higher temps.

The higher melting point solders do have their uses though. You don't want things coming unsoldered when you switch out wires on your esc that aren't supposed to come unsoldered. That's one reason I hate when wires come pre-soldered to an esc.

Also as far as the FX-888, I too have the analog version which is now discontinued. My buddy has the digital version. I had both set up at the same time testing them out and mine was much hotter than my buddies. His has always struggled to unsolder motor wires. Regardless of the tip size. I unplugged my iron from the base unit and plugged it into his digital base and same issue. So I know it wasn't the iron itself. No idea if this is an isolated problem with my buddies unit or if its common problem with the digital version.
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Old 05-20-2014, 08:59 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
I am looking to pick this up. I tried to look at all of the tips and see what is what. I know it has a 1.6mm and a 3.2mm tip. I think the s3 is a 5.2mm tip. I probably dont need all of those tips, but I am thinking I wan the 3.2mm and the 5.2mm tips. I have a 85watt hakko that really struggles to desolder esc's that are prewired with 12awg lead free solder. I assume I need a beefer tip to carry more heat and maybe an iron that gets hotter. Anyone use this iron for 10-12awg wiring with lead free solder? what tips are you using?

This is the package I am looking at
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hakko-FX888D...item3f30b0eb8c
Even a 150watt gun can be difficult on 10g wire if it's not properly tinned and using wet solder to transfer heat.

I have a Weller WS51 with just the tiny, micro chisel it came with and have no problem with thick wire because I tin and melt just a little solder on the tip to help the heat conduct. And that is with the temperature only 1/2 way up. A good iron will keep the tip temperature constant so you shouldn't need a huge heavy tip. All that buys you is more surface area and you can do the same thing just by being mindful of using a little melted solder to channel heat.
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Old 05-20-2014, 09:32 PM   #9
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ok, maybe its my technique.

I tin my iron and get it "wet". then I apply it to the joint and then feed a little more solder into the factory joint. I do this because it "feels" to me that if i can get my solder to mix in a little with the factory solder it goes faster. I never ever use a dry iron for anything. When creating a joint, I tin both surfaces, wetten the tip with fresh solder and apply heat to both surface until they flow together. I have no issues soldering 12awg with my hakko mach 1 and 60/40 solder. I ONLY have issues undoing factory soldered wires. I also tried the cut the lead short method, so that the wire does not act like a heat sink. It took me a good 30-45 minutes to remove the negative lead. All the rest were about 5 minutes each. I spend most of my time trying to get the esc to cool off. It took my tip about 30 seconds of heat with a wet tip to get the wire off. that made the esc hot.
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Old 05-21-2014, 07:18 AM   #10
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Get the Hakko and don't look back. Even if you improve your technique, the Hakko has a ceramic heating element with temp sensor, and a wide selection of tips. Its nice to have the ability to go from soldering 10 Ga wire all the way down to small chips on a circuit board.

Another to look at is a weller soldering station. Good thing about both is you can get tips easily at either a Frys electronics store or amazon.
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Old 05-22-2014, 04:44 AM   #11
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I can solder and desolder 8 gauge wire from the mamba xl2 esc with my 888d. It's all in the tip and temperature. Your method is right so use the biggest tip and set the temp to 400•c. If the joint doesn't melt in 4-6 sec add more 60/40 to the tip and joint to lower the melting point of the lead free. Also if you still have problems use this stuff. http://www.zeph.com/lowmelt.htm
It's pricey but I use it when replacing wires on escs. It's made for smd chip desoldering. But it melts the solder on the esc wires at 150-200•c. Then you don't have to worry about overheating the esc and damaging it.
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Old 05-22-2014, 05:42 PM   #12
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If you have an older Hakko, at some point it might need a new heating element. Just got a new one for ours at the office, now its like "butter"!!
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Old 05-22-2014, 08:23 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nikos2002 View Post
If you have an older Hakko, at some point it might need a new heating element. Just got a new one for ours at the office, now its like "butter"!!
What did you pay for it? When I looked into replacing just the wand it was as much as an entire new unit.
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Old 05-30-2014, 08:26 AM   #14
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ok, so I figured out I have been using acid flux...grr....I was lightly using it, /crosses fingers. This week, I needed to solder up some 12awg wire. Well, I was having issues getting the wire nicely tinned. I still have my hakko 910 mach1 with 3.2mm tip, but it was considerably hard to get a nice tin without the flux. I am using kester 44 solder, which is rosin core. Is my issue the iron I am using or do I just need flux. I am unsure if its a heat issue. I am looking for a good non acid flux, but striking out locally. I am told the flux in my kester 44 should be all I need. I am getting pretty frustrated with this 12 awg crap. I plan to order a fx888d here soon if I cant resolver my 12awg soldering issues. I just want to make some nice tinning and solder connect..pretty ones, lol. I am getting more and more anal as I get older, lol. I know the pretty solder joins wont make me faster. But if i cant be fast, might as well be pretty, lol. Lastly, what size tips are you guys using for soldering 13-12 awg wire. I currently have an undamaged 3.2mm on my 85 watt hakko. I looked at the T18-D32 tip at Fry's electronics yesterday and it looked a little wimpy. But again, maybe my 85 watt hakko iron is not putting out enough heat or does not have great recovery to keep the heat flowing.
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Old 05-30-2014, 10:11 AM   #15
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On mine, I was using the small fine point tip to soldering everything. I normally use Radio shack 60/40 thin wire stuff. I never really have problems unless I dont apply enough solder or something has a really high strand count.
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