Novak problem
03-08-2013, 08:36 AM
#1
Novak problem
Well i started to solder my ese to the motor but i ran into a problem,I will tin the motor tab and the wire but the solder will stick to the wire but no the tab.has anyone else had this problem?
Last edited by 4tec44; 03-08-2013 at 08:50 AM.
03-08-2013, 08:40 AM
#2
you have to tin the tab first... if you already havent, will have to be a decent amount, no just a tiny part.... some tabs take a fair bit of heat before they actaully attract the solder to melt onto it
03-08-2013, 09:17 AM
#4
If you really want to do a pro job:
1. Take a hobby knife and scrape a criss-cross pattern into each tab. This will take a little elbow grease, but it gives the solder something to really dig into and bond with.
2. Apply a thin layer of flux to each tab, being careful to coat anything you want the solder to flow to and not coating anything you don't want it to flow to.
3. Get a decent-sized bead of solder on your iron. Not huge, but like others said, the idea here is to heat the tabs and flow solder over them.
4. Apply the iron to the flux'ed tab. Hold it there for a few seconds while the solder flows over the tab and heats it. You need the tab to heat up in order to generate a proper bond with the solder, and because the tabs are big clunky sticks of metal, they don't heat as quickly/thoroughly as, say, wire. But, don't overdo it, either. A good 3-count ought to do it with a proper iron.
5. Tin your wires using the same process, though don't heat them as much. They heat up much quicker and you don't want solder wicking up the wire.
6. With both components tinned, apply a small dab of flux to the tab. Place the tinned wire on the tab and then apply the the iron. You don't need more solder on your iron for this part; the tinned components already have all the solder you need and the flux will facilitate the heat transfer.
This all assumes that you have a proper iron and good solder. If you're using 63/37 or 60/40 solder, a standard 40W Weller will be fine. If you're working with Pb-free solder - preferrably SAC305 - then a 60W will be necessary.
Step #1 is optional and is just a little insurance - it satisfies my OCD. If you do #2 - #6 properly, you'll be just fine.
I never apply additional solder when I'm mating components. Proper technique calls for pre-tinning all components. When done well, the tinned components will have the necessary amount of solder to be joined together; no sense in trying to hold your iron in one hand, mate the components with another, and then trying to inject more solder somehow. It's awkward, unnecessary, and ends with too much solder on the job. Flux is your friend.
1. Take a hobby knife and scrape a criss-cross pattern into each tab. This will take a little elbow grease, but it gives the solder something to really dig into and bond with.
2. Apply a thin layer of flux to each tab, being careful to coat anything you want the solder to flow to and not coating anything you don't want it to flow to.
3. Get a decent-sized bead of solder on your iron. Not huge, but like others said, the idea here is to heat the tabs and flow solder over them.
4. Apply the iron to the flux'ed tab. Hold it there for a few seconds while the solder flows over the tab and heats it. You need the tab to heat up in order to generate a proper bond with the solder, and because the tabs are big clunky sticks of metal, they don't heat as quickly/thoroughly as, say, wire. But, don't overdo it, either. A good 3-count ought to do it with a proper iron.
5. Tin your wires using the same process, though don't heat them as much. They heat up much quicker and you don't want solder wicking up the wire.
6. With both components tinned, apply a small dab of flux to the tab. Place the tinned wire on the tab and then apply the the iron. You don't need more solder on your iron for this part; the tinned components already have all the solder you need and the flux will facilitate the heat transfer.
This all assumes that you have a proper iron and good solder. If you're using 63/37 or 60/40 solder, a standard 40W Weller will be fine. If you're working with Pb-free solder - preferrably SAC305 - then a 60W will be necessary.
Step #1 is optional and is just a little insurance - it satisfies my OCD. If you do #2 - #6 properly, you'll be just fine.
I never apply additional solder when I'm mating components. Proper technique calls for pre-tinning all components. When done well, the tinned components will have the necessary amount of solder to be joined together; no sense in trying to hold your iron in one hand, mate the components with another, and then trying to inject more solder somehow. It's awkward, unnecessary, and ends with too much solder on the job. Flux is your friend.
03-08-2013, 09:19 AM
#5
it seems i have plenty of heat,the solder will melt onto the tab and stick but when i reheat the tab to introduce the motor wire the solder with remelt but when it turns into a solid again it will not stick to the tab any more. i have never had this happen to me before.could it be i need to try a nother kind of solder?
03-08-2013, 09:36 AM
#6
What size tip, solder, and flux are you using? Are you using flux?
A ~5mm tip is good for R/C and practically a requirement for soldering to motor tabs. Anything smaller just can't distribute adequate heat to the tabs.
A ~5mm tip is good for R/C and practically a requirement for soldering to motor tabs. Anything smaller just can't distribute adequate heat to the tabs.
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