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Old 12-22-2014, 02:24 PM   #1201
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Originally Posted by marvcat1 View Post
The car is nice and free, drivetrain is smooth the gear ratio is as you confirm. The car is fast, that's not my concern. The LRP is a very smooth motor. All I want is a bit more punch on the bottom. As I watch other guys drive their cars who I have clearly out qualified I can see a little more push on their cars in the corners. Plus I can hear their motors wind up on hard accelerations. My motor has great power but just want it to be more aggressive. I'm using the fantom 7200mAh pack that's less than a year old. Didn't use a temp gun but after a run the motor feels worm to the touch.
As mentioned above, try gearing up to 3.9-ish or so and see how it feels. Every motor is different so you should play with the FDR to find the right spot in the power band. If you're noticing the other cars have more punch in the corners, are you sure you're not spinning tires with too much torque? Maybe you don't have as much mechanical grip? I could see either affecting how the car feels.
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Old 12-22-2014, 02:28 PM   #1202
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Didn't use a temp gun but after a run the motor feels worm to the touch.
You should definitely gear it down (up?) I think. I run that same sort of FDR but on a 13.5 x20!

You could also more likely run more initial drive and more timing on the end bell (reverse the inserts to go over 37.5)

X20's are tough and can handle heat. Use the internal measuring on the ESC of you don't have a gun.

Last edited by cplus; 12-23-2014 at 02:03 PM.
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Old 12-22-2014, 02:40 PM   #1203
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Thanks a lot guys I'm going to gear up on the ratio to 3.9 FDR. I have a temp gun but really didn't need to use it as the motor was just warm.
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Old 12-23-2014, 07:38 AM   #1204
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Thanks a lot guys I'm going to gear up on the ratio to 3.9 FDR. I have a temp gun but really didn't need to use it as the motor was just warm.
I run a 46/96 with my X20 17.5/Flow combo. I also maxxed out the timing on the motor. Motor came alive when I added can timing. If running stock timing 48/96 can be run. I come off in the Mid to High 130's. But definitely get closer to a 4.0 FDR to start and check temps. Add more teeth to the pinion, check temps, rinse and repeat.
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Old 12-23-2014, 12:47 PM   #1205
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I run a 46/96 with my X20 17.5/Flow combo. I also maxxed out the timing on the motor. Motor came alive when I added can timing. If running stock timing 48/96 can be run. I come off in the Mid to High 130's. But definitely get closer to a 4.0 FDR to start and check temps. Add more teeth to the pinion, check temps, rinse and repeat.
That's exactly the pinion/spur combination I've switch to. Can't wait to test it out at the track. Well holiday season is upon us so got to get that family time in before the boss kills me. Just want to say to all and have a merry Christmas.
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Old 12-29-2014, 04:58 PM   #1206
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Has any body found a way to make widows 8 to work with lrp and downloading new software into the speed controller?
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Old 12-29-2014, 05:14 PM   #1207
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Originally Posted by LloydLoar View Post
Yep. It will add a little temp to the speedo when you increase torque timing, but it makes a big difference in how the low end of the X20 motors feels, especially if you aren't using the 12 mm rotor. As JD said, just note that torque timing can't be changed in blinky classes.
I spoke with Jake D and Kody Knudson a bit at the track on Saturday about the torque timing. I'm not sure anything got clearer.

I also tried a couple different settings. The track was green, so results are inconclusive.
#0 / 0* - My usual, felt like it usually does, i.e. a bit more bottom end than I'd like, but not too bad.
#5 / 25* - Felt noticeably smoother, but seemed to increase ESC / motor temp to higher levels than I'm used to. Touching the motor / ESC didn't burn me, but I didn't want my finger on it for more than about 1 second. I'd guess about 140-150*F.
#3 / 15* - Felt like more bottom end and mid than either of the other extremes.

I'm running an LRP x20 5.5 w/ 27.5* insert and stock rotor (12.5mm?) at 8.4 FDR with the 1.4 firmware. Initial drive is #1 / 3%. Boost Timing is #2-3 / 10-15*. Boost Angle & Activation is #3 / 0.6. Turbo is #1 / 5*.

Talking to Jake, he was wondering if what happens is that it's increasing motor timing to take away torque at the very bottom end. Then if you've got a setup without much timing, it will actually increase the low to mid range torque making it feel more aggressive. But if you put the setting even higher, especially with motor timing or aggressive boost, it'll over-time the motor at the low end, taking away the grunt, but making heat.

Maybe I should try another approach: If you've got a setup / gearing for the above motor for a 100'x48' carpet track, please share. Our new layout is a lot of slow corners into straight chutes, with a big sweeper and a high speed chicane. So the low-end grunt isn't so bad as the previous layout that was very technical. But a bit more smoothness for the final corner into the sweeper would be good.

-Mike
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Old 12-29-2014, 05:29 PM   #1208
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Has any body found a way to make widows 8 to work with lrp and downloading new software into the speed controller?
What problem do you have ?
Does it install ?
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Old 12-29-2014, 06:37 PM   #1209
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I get it installed no problem but when I try to connect the screen goes away It will not connect. I have 8.1 windows and tried the signature disconnect but still does not connect
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Old 12-29-2014, 07:18 PM   #1210
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I get it installed no problem but when I try to connect the screen goes away It will not connect. I have 8.1 windows and tried the signature disconnect but still does not connect
Try Windows Program Compatibility Troubleshoot tool
Go for recommended settings

Also make sure you have a solid blue light on the LRP v2 dongle
That's a usb driver issue, which unfortunately requires Java
Attached Thumbnails
New LRP Flow Esc-1.jpg   New LRP Flow Esc-2.jpg  
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Old 12-29-2014, 07:34 PM   #1211
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Does the lite need to be solid? What if it is blinking fast blue
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Old 12-29-2014, 08:03 PM   #1212
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Does the lite need to be solid? What if it is blinking fast blue
Blinking is no go
Must be solid
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Old 12-29-2014, 09:32 PM   #1213
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That's a usb driver issue, which unfortunately requires Java
A windows driver that requires java... let's all let that sink in for a while...
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Old 12-29-2014, 10:11 PM   #1214
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A windows driver that requires java... let's all let that sink in for a while...
Tell me about it
Installation won't work without Java at all, oddly enough
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Old 12-30-2014, 04:45 AM   #1215
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Well I did everything you said and was going good I got the solid blue lite but every time I hit the connect button I get the promp got make I am connected properly I hit ok and everything goes away. What am I doing wrong?
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