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Old 08-28-2012, 07:33 AM   #91
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The capxon capacitors are no good I did not use them hobbywing needs to change to a better manufacturer they are known to fail in all applications very well known in the electronics industry
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Old 08-28-2012, 02:58 PM   #92
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Need some help setting up my V3

I am running 1/10 TC 13.5 boosted with a Reedy Sonic 13.5

Having a lot of trouble getting a good setting in while keeping temp below 70 degrees C.

Few thing I am unsure about

- gear ratio - tried 5.8 to 6.7 temps didn't change much
- end bell timing - anything below 25-30 gives no power
- what rev range should I be using? Currently starting at 1500 ending 16000 with 50 boost + 10 turbo

Thanks guys
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Old 08-28-2012, 05:29 PM   #93
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The capxon capacitors are no good I did not use them hobbywing needs to change to a better manufacturer they are known to fail in all applications very well known in the electronics industry
What brand are you using to replace the original capacitors with.

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Old 08-28-2012, 08:04 PM   #94
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Originally Posted by iwkyb View Post
Need some help setting up my V3

I am running 1/10 TC 13.5 boosted with a Reedy Sonic 13.5

Having a lot of trouble getting a good setting in while keeping temp below 70 degrees C.

Few thing I am unsure about

- gear ratio - tried 5.8 to 6.7 temps didn't change much
- end bell timing - anything below 25-30 gives no power
- what rev range should I be using? Currently starting at 1500 ending 16000 with 50 boost + 10 turbo

Thanks guys
I'd recomend putting your start RPM higher... more in the 5000-7000 rpm range, as the motor will never see 1500rpm round the track (except when starting from a dead stop!), so all your doing there is adding static timing to the rev range.
I do know the Sonics don't mind being run a bit hotter though, so could push them to 85C fine.

HiH
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Old 08-28-2012, 08:10 PM   #95
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Originally Posted by Stogie View Post
Relatively conservative settings - only about 15 on the boost, no turbo or timing. Zero degrees of physical timing on the motor. Everything was unbelievably hot coming off the track after even 3 or 4 minutes, leading me to believe I might be over-geared, but put the exact same setup on the Orion and it held up. Came off the track a little cooler after a 6 minute run. Guess the extra 40 amp limit really does make a difference!

I'll just get this little unit fixed (hopefully!) and keep it in blinky mode for the 17.5 and 13.5 car. I still really like the form-factor with the switch button right on the case. Very cool.
Does sound like you got a duff unit, as I'm quite happily running 20+ boost and 20+ turbo with a 4.5. I wouldn't expect much difference for a 4.0 tbh. What was the gearing you were running? I use around 8.0 for the 4.5 with that level of boost, track dependent. Also, how about the punch settings?

Don't believe everything written about other speedies. Even though they are both manufactured by HW, everyone I know who has gone from an Orion to a V3 has preferred the V3. I'd deff give it a try again fter you get it warrented.

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Old 08-28-2012, 09:37 PM   #96
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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
I'd recomend putting your start RPM higher... more in the 5000-7000 rpm range, as the motor will never see 1500rpm round the track (except when starting from a dead stop!), so all your doing there is adding static timing to the rev range.
I do know the Sonics don't mind being run a bit hotter though, so could push them to 85C fine.

HiH
Ed
Thanks Ed

Another question, how about end rpm and also the ratio between boost and turbo? I am trying to get a smooth trigger feel without the sudden surge forward (I got rid of my tekin due to that reason)

Thanks again
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Old 08-29-2012, 06:14 AM   #97
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Originally Posted by iwkyb View Post
Thanks Ed

Another question, how about end rpm and also the ratio between boost and turbo? I am trying to get a smooth trigger feel without the sudden surge forward (I got rid of my tekin due to that reason)

Thanks again
The ratio between boost and Turbo generally is track dependent, although you will find that less boost will make the throttle smoother, when using a relatively short rpm range. Using less boost and/or lengthening the RPM range will all help to contribute to a smoother overall throttle feel.
Something I've always found helpful for sorting out the rev ranges, is to calculate the speed that the car is doing on track. IMO, trying to figure out the lowest RPM that the motor turns on track, and then setting the start RPM to suit is best. From testing with a data-logger, usually the lowest speed (regardless of class, as we're talking corner apex speed) is around 7-9mph. So setting the start RPM by back calculating from the roll out and FDR. It's easier than it sounds, especially with this excel sheet.

Again, from your settings originally posted, along with higher start, maybe also try less boost/more turbo, and also a higher end RPM. Also, don't forget, you don't need to use all the dynamic timing, if the track doesn't allow it. I've seen plenty of situations where adding more timing hasn't made the car any faster, and just added heat.

HiH
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Old 08-29-2012, 07:57 AM   #98
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Hi,

I am using V3 Esc with Lrp X20 5T motor with my Xray T3 '12 car..
Our track is technical, low traction.
Could you please give me esc setup anyone ?!
Thnaks....
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Old 08-29-2012, 05:38 PM   #99
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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
The ratio between boost and Turbo generally is track dependent, although you will find that less boost will make the throttle smoother, when using a relatively short rpm range. Using less boost and/or lengthening the RPM range will all help to contribute to a smoother overall throttle feel.
Something I've always found helpful for sorting out the rev ranges, is to calculate the speed that the car is doing on track. IMO, trying to figure out the lowest RPM that the motor turns on track, and then setting the start RPM to suit is best. From testing with a data-logger, usually the lowest speed (regardless of class, as we're talking corner apex speed) is around 7-9mph. So setting the start RPM by back calculating from the roll out and FDR. It's easier than it sounds, especially with this excel sheet.

Again, from your settings originally posted, along with higher start, maybe also try less boost/more turbo, and also a higher end RPM. Also, don't forget, you don't need to use all the dynamic timing, if the track doesn't allow it. I've seen plenty of situations where adding more timing hasn't made the car any faster, and just added heat.

HiH
Ed
Thanks for the helpful tips again

Just one more question, my car was tested by one of the more experienced drivers and he said that the main issue is the car lacked punch unless Turbo is engaged with full trigger, which was causing me to overshoot corners since I am consistently full throttling to get the punch. His solution was to increase the end bell timing so there was more "meat" with the first 50% of the throttle throw so I can use more fine throttle control.

Which part of the ESC setting controls this? Making the throttle more linear

Thanks again
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Old 09-01-2012, 04:55 AM   #100
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Questions?? Capacitors ??????

Quote:
Originally Posted by Warren Weaver View Post
The capxon capacitors are no good I did not use them hobbywing needs to change to a better manufacturer they are known to fail in all applications very well known in the electronics industry
What capacitors would be best to use?

The stock 2 capacitors that come with the V3
or the Hobbywing 4 capacitors unit?

Or is there something else worth using?????
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Old 09-04-2012, 12:26 PM   #101
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Need some advice, I changed from hobbywing xtreme stock to the V3, the main reason for the change as I couldnít get my x12 13.5 below 80 degrees. I raced at the weekend at Mendip (U.K Track), itís a large tarmac track with a 60m straight. It was an expensive weekend, I killed 2 motors x12 13.5 and hpi flux 13.5.

I have attached my setup from the weekend, the X12 had the 4 dot timing insert and geared at 6.6, Similar 13.5 drivers were geared between 6.2 to 6.5. After 3 minutes the motor was coming off at 100 degrees.

I checked the drive chain, it was running freely. My lipoís MooreSpeed 5600 50C are good condition, punchy and big capacity.

Can anyone see any problems with these settings? Also tried these settings with HPI Flux which has a lot less mechanical timing built in.

Could it be a radio issue, I am using FrSky FR4 receiver not the original Futaba receiver.
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Old 09-06-2012, 02:32 PM   #102
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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
The ratio between boost and Turbo generally is track dependent, although you will find that less boost will make the throttle smoother, when using a relatively short rpm range. Using less boost and/or lengthening the RPM range will all help to contribute to a smoother overall throttle feel.
Something I've always found helpful for sorting out the rev ranges, is to calculate the speed that the car is doing on track. IMO, trying to figure out the lowest RPM that the motor turns on track, and then setting the start RPM to suit is best. From testing with a data-logger, usually the lowest speed (regardless of class, as we're talking corner apex speed) is around 7-9mph. So setting the start RPM by back calculating from the roll out and FDR. It's easier than it sounds, especially with this excel sheet.

HiH
Ed

That's enough Ed. You've let the cat out of the bag. Now, please, please stop giving out this kind of information.
I thought I was the only one who did this. I made my own Excel sheet for this one year ago. Its similar to yours but more in depth. There is no chance I would ever share this!
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Old 09-06-2012, 10:51 PM   #103
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Originally Posted by Jim_1987 View Post
Need some advice, I changed from hobbywing xtreme stock to the V3, the main reason for the change as I couldnít get my x12 13.5 below 80 degrees. I raced at the weekend at Mendip (U.K Track), itís a large tarmac track with a 60m straight. It was an expensive weekend, I killed 2 motors x12 13.5 and hpi flux 13.5.

I have attached my setup from the weekend, the X12 had the 4 dot timing insert and geared at 6.6, Similar 13.5 drivers were geared between 6.2 to 6.5. After 3 minutes the motor was coming off at 100 degrees.

I checked the drive chain, it was running freely. My lipoís MooreSpeed 5600 50C are good condition, punchy and big capacity.

Can anyone see any problems with these settings? Also tried these settings with HPI Flux which has a lot less mechanical timing built in.

Could it be a radio issue, I am using FrSky FR4 receiver not the original Futaba receiver.
That's a long straight, and you are not running a lot of timing.

Have you considered that you are over-revving the motor which is he source of heat?

Try lowering the time to very safe level then try to gear up to 5.0-5.5 FDR ans see how that affects temp, if the temp dropped then you can add the timing back on.
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Old 09-07-2012, 02:10 AM   #104
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The HW V3 seems a great product nice quality and features. But I'm afraid to buy it since it has so many settings. The problem is I mostly race on a track once a year for two days and that's it. 10 races per year 10 tracks and no practice days since I don't have a lot of free time. First I have to set-up the car and don't have the time to play around with all the settings especially if I'm not sure what they do and how they will effect my driving.

Now i'm using a Nosram ISTC V2 it's very simple and it works.

It would be helpful if there was a tutorial how to use it in and get along with all this settings. Ok in the instruction manual there are some explanation what the settings mean but it needs some practical examples what all this does on the track and so on.

Regards, G
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Old 09-07-2012, 02:54 AM   #105
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Originally Posted by iwkyb View Post
Thanks for the helpful tips again

Just one more question, my car was tested by one of the more experienced drivers and he said that the main issue is the car lacked punch unless Turbo is engaged with full trigger, which was causing me to overshoot corners since I am consistently full throttling to get the punch. His solution was to increase the end bell timing so there was more "meat" with the first 50% of the throttle throw so I can use more fine throttle control.

Which part of the ESC setting controls this? Making the throttle more linear

Thanks again
Turn BT by TH to "No" will give you the punch you're looking for
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